tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88266379537926148512024-03-13T03:22:43.285-04:00A Man for All SeasoningsWe all love food: cooking it, eating it, talking about it. This blog is dedicated to those who are interested in food in all its forms and cuisines. This is meant to be a lively conversation between friends so please join in with your thoughts – and even your own recipes. Welcome!Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.comBlogger114125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-47014252767449374022020-07-08T12:32:00.000-04:002020-07-12T16:20:09.872-04:00Time for a great side dish: Wild Rice Pilaf<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbuDMRWQGNW4UaR_9r2svcCgy7kYFhPXk2SN-l8hYbeirbvu4DEHRD76UvnLHJNhI56fN4xnU6Q-GQKKl1Tu5sXgxbGGA45c-AullDy0zceeVLyEXeCZFAxVWvWeukPi2ZOzhC3mo9t1M/s1600/Wild_Rice_Pilaf.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: .25em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1297" data-original-width="1600" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbuDMRWQGNW4UaR_9r2svcCgy7kYFhPXk2SN-l8hYbeirbvu4DEHRD76UvnLHJNhI56fN4xnU6Q-GQKKl1Tu5sXgxbGGA45c-AullDy0zceeVLyEXeCZFAxVWvWeukPi2ZOzhC3mo9t1M/s320/Wild_Rice_Pilaf.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Here is one of my very few original recipes, not that wild rice pilaf has never been made before! My take on it is a slightly different in one important respect: it contains toasted pine nuts — and they make a very welcome addition to the overall woodsy flavour I was going for.<br />
<br />
Wild rice is more familiar in North America where it is considered a delicacy. It also grows and is eaten in China, but there it's the vegetation and not the seed which the Chinese go after. Most of what is harvested and eaten in Canada is what’s called Northern Wild Rice. It grows around the Great Lakes in sheltered, but also in smaller lakes and slow-flowing rivers. First Nations and others are cultivating it by planting seeds in the shallow borders of small lakes — of which Canada has plenty. In the US, most of it is cultivated in Minnesota and Wisconsin, but the majority of wild rice available commercially comes from north of the 49th parallel.<br />
<br />
It actually isn’t technically rice at all, just a close cousin. The outer husk is tough and requires a fairly long cooking time, while the centre is quite tender. It also needs water in a ratio of 3+-to-1 rather than the lesser amount rice needs. As I mentioned above, it has a woodsy, vegetal taste which is delicate and lovely.<br />
<br />
Wild rice is rather expensive because it cannot be harvested in large amounts and this has to be done mostly by hand. This is accomplished by shaking the seed heads into the bottom of a canoe or special flat-bottomed boat. Fortunately the seeds fall out easily. The industry is too small for mechanical means to have been developed to any large extent. One good thing is any seeds that fall into the water — and I imagine that’s a fair bit — sink, then germinate the following year, so wild rice is self-seeding. Also because it’s not really cultivated, you’re pretty well assured that your rice is organic.<br />
<br />
Anyway, wild rice is a lovely thing to eat and we’ve always been huge fans. Because of the price, it has to remain a treat, but my recipe also helps out with that, although it’s a byproduct of what I was trying to achieve.<br />
<br />
This is why you see brown rice in the ingredient list. It was my wife’s suggestion, but not so much to cut down the expense. We just love the wonderful nutty flavour of brown rice which works very well with the earthiness of the wild rice. Adding to this is the addition of sautéed wild mushrooms and of course the pine nuts. Thyme and bay seem to me the perfect herbs to use, but I’ve also used rosemary and sage with success.<br />
<br />
All in all, this is one terrific side dish, not particularly difficult to make and a most excellent accompaniment to grilled meats. We love it with sauteed salmon filets with a lemon/butter/wine sauce (photo above) or even rainbow trout.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Rick’s Wild Rice Pilaf</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>SERVES 4</i></span></b><br />
<br />
<b>Ingredients</b><br />
<b><br />
</b> 1 cup good quality low-sodium stock (vegetable, chicken or beef all work well depending on what you’re serving with this)<br />
1 Tbs olive oil<br />
2 Tbs minced shallots<br />
1/4 cup wild rice<br />
2 Tbs brown rice<br />
1 1/2 Tbs butter<br />
1 cup sliced mushrooms (wild if you can get them)<br />
2 Tbs pine nuts<br />
3 fresh thyme sprigs<br />
1 bay leaf<br />
1/2 tsp of salt<br />
freshly ground black pepper<br />
<br />
<b>Method:</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Heat the stock until it’s nearly boiling.</li>
<li>In a saucepan, heat the olive oil until it’s fragrant. Add the minced shallots and wild rice. (Don’t have the heat above medium! Shallots burn pretty quickly.) Cook, stirring gently as the shallots soften and the rice toasts. This takes 3-5 minutes. Watch the shallots so they don’t brown.</li>
<li>Pour in the heated stock, thyme sprigs, bay leaf and salt, then cover tightly. Reduce the heat immediately so that the stock is just simmering gently. Cook for 1 hour and 20 minutes.</li>
<li>Meanwhile sauté the mushrooms in the butter until they’re beginning to brown.</li>
<li>Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan (cast iron, if you have it). Stir them gently to brown them evenly. Watch that they don’t burn! You want a nice golden brown.</li>
<li>After the hour and twenty minutes, add the brown rice to the pilaf, stir in, and recover the pot. Cook gently for an additional 40 minutes. If the pilaf looks a bit dry, add a tablespoon or two of additional stock or water.</li>
<li>When that time has passed, check to see that both grains are cooked (not crunching but not mushy). You may find they need a bit more time.</li>
<li>When the pilaf is cooked , all the liquid should have been absorbed. If the pilaf is done to your satisfaction and there is still a bit of water, simply pour it off. Remove the thyme sprigs and bay leaf.</li>
<li>Now stir in the mushrooms and pine nuts. Check the seasoning and add more salt if necessary. Don't forget the pepper!</li>
</ol>
<br />Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-5050037041844543232020-04-10T12:45:00.001-04:002020-04-10T12:45:58.481-04:00Hazelnut Torte and a few memories<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjspuEhuPdaszSLjNTsEU3-FF9EIfY-xxV3jnYwCvSSkxuZzhxNgJWAQpgGdkcgH93o-jGy9K_Jf4EWkyfzjpu2SgyeLm4v_WP3IySglOnqqC3gB4gM2wYULEY8VRb7HUvXpIqDVCt_VGCh/s1600/Hazelnut_Torte.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: .25em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjspuEhuPdaszSLjNTsEU3-FF9EIfY-xxV3jnYwCvSSkxuZzhxNgJWAQpgGdkcgH93o-jGy9K_Jf4EWkyfzjpu2SgyeLm4v_WP3IySglOnqqC3gB4gM2wYULEY8VRb7HUvXpIqDVCt_VGCh/s320/Hazelnut_Torte.jpg" width="320" /></a>One thing you have to say for Europeans, is that they know how to make superb <i>and</i> interesting cakes, especially the Germans and Austrians. I know I’ll take some heat for that last part, but I believe it’s the case.<br />
<br />
We’ve been fortunate enough to make two visits to Vienna (researching my novel, <i>Cemetery of the Nameless</i>), and I feel absolutely secure in saying that the level of cake baking in this city is of the highest order. Especially in the First District — the old heart of this great city — there are literally dozens of konditorei (pastry shops), each one seemingly better than the last. Every café, of which Vienna also has no lack, serves beautiful torten to moon over while enjoying a cup of Melange, the archetypical Viennese coffee. And then there’s the Sacher torte…<br />
<br />
<i><b>SIDEBAR:</b> The Viennese love their coffee and they make it many different ways, and every one I’ve tried has been wonderful. As we were preparing to visit this city for the first time way back in 1995, I did a lot of research beforehand. Of course I ran into articles about the city’s “coffee culture”, which is where I first heard about Wiener Melange, the most ubiquitous cup to be found, but two others really piqued my interest. First was Wiener Eiskaffee (more about this some other time), and the other was Kaisermelange.</i><br />
<i><br />
</i> <i>This specialty coffee is made with </i><i>an egg yolk</i><i> beaten with a little honey into which is poured </i><i>a generous shot of espresso, then</i><i> </i><i>a small tot of cognac (usually), and sometimes topped with a bit of whipped cream — or schlag as the Viennese call it. Wait a minute? Did he say egg yolk? In coffee? Whoa!</i><br />
<i><br />
</i> <i>Of course, I </i>immediately<i> decided I had to try this at the first opportunity. I was not disappointed. It is a lovely mixture. It does not need a lot of honey, but it does need a very fresh egg yolk. Here’s what looks like a decent recipe for it (<a href="https://www.justapinch.com/recipes/drink/hot-drink/kaisermelange-coffee.html">https://www.justapinch.com/recipes/drink/hot-drink/kaisermelange-coffee.html</a>), but a word of warning: I suspect you really need to be in Vienna with a slice of wonderful torten to enjoy this to the fullest. I now return you to our regularly scheduled blog post…</i><br />
<br />
What is different about this hazelnut torte is that it doesn’t include flour or butter. The ground nuts and breadcrumbs stand in for it. Normally for cakes you cream butter and sugar together, the idea being that the air beaten in will expand as the cake cooks (aided by the rising action of baking powder) and give the eggs and flour a chance to “harden” during baking which supports the cake after it cools. There are a lot of complicated chemistry-type things going on, but this gives you a rough idea of what happens.<br />
<br />
With this torte, the heavy lifting is accomplished by the eggs and butter as the “air holder” and the eggs whites provide the matrix to hold everything up as the cooking hardens the structure. And that’s the reason the cake will collapse back down a bit as it cools. It’s to be expected. You haven’t done anything wrong. This cake is just not as “robust” as a typical cake made with flour.<br />
<br />
But boy, is it good!<br />
<br />
The combination of equal parts hazelnuts and walnuts is at the heart of the flavour of this torte. I tried making it once just using hazelnuts, and while tasty, it just didn't measure up. If you have some way to grind your nuts fresh, go for it. It will make a difference in the flavour.<br />
<br />
One final word, my brother-in-law, Scott Meynig, used to say Germans enjoy their cake on the stale side (he lived in Germany for a few years which is where he met my sister). In this case, a day or two helps this cake. I never bake it, frost it, and then serve it on the same day. It does improve the structure to let it sit for a day and also helps keep the whipped cream from making it a bit soggy. But make sure you wrap it or the crust will dry out too much.<br />
<br />
<h2><span class="s1">Hazelnut Torte</span></h2><div class="p1"><span class="s2"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">SERVES 8-10</span></b></span></div><div class="p1"><br />
</div><div class="p3"><span class="s2"><b>INGREDIENTS</b></span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">1 cup<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>sugar</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">12<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>eggs yolks</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">¼ lb<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>ground hazelnuts (or filberts)</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">¼ lb<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>ground walnuts</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">2 Tbs<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>bread crumbs</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">8<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>egg whites</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">3 cups<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>whipping cream</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">3 Tbs<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>sugar</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">1½ tsp<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>vanilla</span></div><div class="p4"><span class="s2">3 packets<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>whipped cream stabilizer</span></div><div class="p5"><span class="s2"></span><br />
</div><div class="p3"><span class="s2"><b>METHOD</b></span></div><div class="p6"></div><ol><li>Preheat oven to 350°. Have all ingredients at room temperature – except the whipping cream!</li>
<li>Using a mixer, beat the egg yolks, then add the sugar gradually and continue beating until the mixture is light yellow and very creamy.</li>
<li>Mix together the two nuts and the bread crumbs, then mix gently into the egg mixture.</li>
<li>Beat the egg whites until stiff, but not dry, then fold them <i>very</i> gently into the other ingredients until well-blended.</li>
<li>Cut a bottom liner from parchment paper for a 10" springform pan, then pour in the cake batter (no need to grease the sides) and bake until a cake tester comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Try to keep vibrations in the kitchen to a minimum. This cake falls easily! Remove from the oven and cool on a rack. When cool, cover tightly with cling film.</li>
<li>The next day, remove the cake from the pan and cut into at least two layers. Whip the cream with the sugar, stabilizer and vanilla and frost your cake. After cooking, the cake will have dropped a fair bit in the centre.* What we do is put more whipped cream in the centre of the lower layer and more in the centre on top to even out the final level of the cake. This way you don’t have a ton of whipped cream on the top which is the only other way to level it. If you cut the cake into 3 layers, this works even better.</li>
<li>We usually sprinkle more ground hazelnuts over the whipped cream which gives the cake a really nice appearance.</li>
<li>Chill thoroughly before serving. This will keep, if sealed tightly, for about 3 days, but I bet it won’t last that long!</li>
</ol><br />
<div class="p7">*I might also suggest trying Wilton Bake-Even strips. These are fabric strips that you dampen and then faten around your baking pan. The cake that’s in contact with the metal sides of the pan naturally cook faster, the primary reason cakes turn out uneven. For this recipe, the cake rises nice and high, but as it cools, the centre drops down, sometimes by nearly inch, hence my recommendation about the filling up above. Bake-Even Strips will help with this. The cake will still drop a bit in the centre, but not as much. They work a treat on any cake, by the way, and are well worth buying if you bake a lot.<span class="s2"></span></div>Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-21889802591867067672018-01-05T16:02:00.003-05:002018-01-26T11:14:25.135-05:00Saltimbocca alla Romana<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH9nqookDYaRWgWcVcrMzRSbdBYzVubKgObPbSq07H-dqp5kk1qbmOu34_2_aPFrGlcHfXOj_W8HkvXhhhz9LdLdsG8iBBcQ-qC5xF7L6lOBuyV2IYIcASRteA2EAv60e4Hh4fyRDCo2d_/s1600/Saltimbocca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: .25em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH9nqookDYaRWgWcVcrMzRSbdBYzVubKgObPbSq07H-dqp5kk1qbmOu34_2_aPFrGlcHfXOj_W8HkvXhhhz9LdLdsG8iBBcQ-qC5xF7L6lOBuyV2IYIcASRteA2EAv60e4Hh4fyRDCo2d_/s320/Saltimbocca.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Welcome to 2018!<br />
<br />
I wound up having to take 2017 off from the AMFAS because I was just too darned busy with other things.<br />
<br />
But now that’s changed!<br />
<br />
I have a lot of things planned for the year, but wanted to kick things off with a wonderful meal whose wonderfulness is increased by also being very easy to make. It only requires the usual kitchen tools most cooks have, an eye to detail and timing and a bit of organization. The organizational part only comes in because you’ll probably want to serve some side dishes (or “contorni” in Italian) and you’ll need to make those ahead, because the final part of preparing saltimbocca will take up all your attention. I cook my contorni and then keep them warm in the over while I cook the veal and make the sauce, then plate everything. Or you could make the contorni way ahead and heat them up in the oven, on the stove or in a microwave. Either way, you need to get this dish onto the table fast!<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Saltimbocca alla Romana</b></span><br />
<i>Serves 4</i><br />
<br />
“Saltimbocca” means “leap into the mouth” and one taste will tell you why the Romans named this dish thusly. It is fantastic and not at all difficult to make. It’s also quick, so it’s an ideal dish to prepare for guests. You can prep it to a certain point (marked in the instructions) so you only have to go into the kitchen for the final cooking of it. Spend more time chatting with your guests, not out in the kitchen!<br />
<br />
This dish is lovely served with roasted potatoes and sauteed swiss chard or spinach. Chianti goes well with it — at least we think so.<br />
<br />
<b>INGREDIENTS</b><br />
<b> </b> <br />
4 5-oz thinly-sliced veal scallopini<br />
4 slices thinly-sliced prosciutto<br />
8-12 fresh sage leaves<br />
flour or cornstarch for dredging<br />
2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil<br />
2 Tbs unsalted butter<br />
1/4 cup dry white wine<br />
1/2 cup chicken broth<br />
salt and black pepper to taste<br />
Lemon wedges<br />
<br />
<b>METHOD</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Put the veal scallopini on a large sheet of plastic wrap. Lay a piece of prosciutto on each piece, then 2 or 3 leaves of sage (more if the leaves are small) on each piece of veal. Cover with another sheet of plastic wrap and then gently flatten the scallopini with a meat mallet or rolling pin until the pieces of veal are 1/4” thick and the prosciutto and sage leaves have somewhat adhered to the meat.</li>
<li>Now weave a couple of toothpicks in and out through the prosciutto and sage leaves and into the veal to secure things together. Lightly pepper each piece of veal on the bottom side. Dredge the bottoms of the veal slices in flour or cornstarch and shake off the excess.</li>
<li>For the sauce, we usually start out with a cup of chicken stock (just chicken is used in it) and 1/3 cup of our vegetable stock and boil them down to a half cup. This intensifies the flavours. Our stocks have little or no salt in them. If you’re using lo-sodium chicken stock just start with a third of a cup to keep the salt levels reasonable. You can prep the dish to this point and then do the rest at the last minute.</li>
<li>To cook, first heat the olive oil and one tablespoon of butter in a large skillet. Cook over medium heat bottom side down first for 2-3 minutes until the veal is nicely browned, then turn and cook the prosciutto/sage side for maybe 10 seconds (just to warm it up). Transfer to a serving platter, remove the toothpicks and keep the saltimbocca warm in the oven.</li>
<li>Add the wine to the pan to deglaze it (you want to scrape up all those flavourful bits!) until the wine is nearly evaporated. Now add the broth to heat and thicken slightly. Just before serving, swirl the remaining tablespoon of butter into the sauce. You probably won’t need to add any salt because the prosciutto will bring enough salt to the dish, but check the sauce. You may want to add a tiny pinch.</li>
<li>Pour the sauce over the saltimbocca, garnish with a few extra sage leaves (optional) and wedges of lemon. Serve immediately!</li>
</ol>
Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-44264622311378469062017-01-22T21:22:00.002-05:002017-01-22T21:30:26.701-05:00What we’ve learned about home-curing guanciale<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GxZZHODBS12GkOnDgx4yRsa8OlSdK-eVVBth8wMVZ9QtCySzAw0tmrSlUZcni_nzYSOBhC85HT-CpB2lUyifbNR131dFCnH5HRvQGwIkNPOQ86zJwH7FiCp-nQyIpZcl_MKNOGBh5vtC/s1600/guanciale_2017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: .25em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GxZZHODBS12GkOnDgx4yRsa8OlSdK-eVVBth8wMVZ9QtCySzAw0tmrSlUZcni_nzYSOBhC85HT-CpB2lUyifbNR131dFCnH5HRvQGwIkNPOQ86zJwH7FiCp-nQyIpZcl_MKNOGBh5vtC/s320/guanciale_2017.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This year’s batch and it tastes amazing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">Back in 2012 when I initiated this blog, <a href="http://amanforallseasonings.blogspot.ca/2012/02/making-guanciale-adventure-in-home.html" target="_blank">the second recipe I shared</a> was one for curing your own guanciale or cured and air dried hog jowl. If that doesn’t sound at all appetizing, please read on!</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Most people outside of Italy had never heard of this delicacy and it was tough to find, even in Toronto with it’s very large Italian population. I did manage to snag some which was made in the Niagara region, and it was very good. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-size: small;">However, I was already well down the path to making our own. I found a recipe online and cured two jowls. It was easy, quick (other than the hanging time while it dried) and tasted really good. Over time and talking with People Who Know About These Things, the recipe was refined a little, and like doing anything over and over, it got even quicker and easier. In fact, we even came up with some very useful shortcuts in the method.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-size: small;">Last year, we did up four medium-sized jowls in November. What with lads who like it as much as we do, sharing a bit here and there with friends, and of course, cooking our own meals, we nearly ran out. For the first time in six years, I was faced with the prospect of having to <i>buy</i> some!</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Since 2012 when I wrote the post mentioned above, hog jowls have gone mainstream. Two blocks from my house at Zito’s Marketplace (a fantastic Italian grocery store), they carry <i>imported</i> Italian guanciale. Many deli counters in big stores carry locally made stuff. You see recipes in women’s magazines that call for guanciale without the blink of an eye. How times have changed!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-size: small;">As summer turns to fall and the temperature plummets, I’m already keeping an eagle eye on the temperature in our basement, waiting for it to drop to around 60°F so that I can get busy making a new batch of guanciale and other salumeri we produce.</span><br />
<br />
So in the last week of October, I went to purchase four gorgeously lean, 2+-pound jowls from my go-to source (Gasparro’s on Bloor St.). Nick, one of the owners, having brought in a half dozen from the farm, made me an offer I couldn’t refuse, and I walked out the door with all six of ’em.<br />
<br />
Back home, we set up an assembly line and in short order, chugged through removing the skin, prepping the spices, sugar and salt of our cure mixture, coating each jowl and then bagging them (more on this later). Five days later, they were lightly cured (as I am fond of calling it), rinsed in a bit of white wine (Orvieto this year), generously peppered, and hanging in our basement.<br />
<br />
I deemed them ready on December 20th, so we vacuum sealed them and put them in our freezer.<br />
<br />
One curing job done! And hopefully enough to last us until next year. Next up: pancetta. Oh my goodness, we’re nearly out!!*<br />
<br />
Here’s the recipe again with notes following on things we began making our own guanciale.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: medium; font-weight: bold;">GUANCIALE RECIPE</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Makes slightly less than 1 1/2 pounds after drying a 2-pound jowl for 4 weeks</span><br />
<br />
1 pork jowl, around 2 pounds<br />
2 1/2 oz kosher salt (or 7% of meat weight)<br />
2 1/2 oz sugar (or 7% of meat weight)<br />
15 black peppercorns<br />
1 bunch of fresh thyme<br />
2 bay laurel leaves (look for genuine bay laurel)<br />
8-16 juniper berries (depending on how well you like this flavor)<br />
2-4 oz dry white wine<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">1.</span> Grind up the juniper, peppercorns and bay in a spice grinder until reasonably fine, or grind it the old fashioned way using a mortar and pestle accompanied by some good old elbow grease. Combine he herbs with the salt and sugar. Remove the leaves from the thyme, discarding the stalks. You should have about 1 tablespoon’s worth. (And <i>do not</i> use dried thyme. It just doesn’t taste as good as fresh.) Add these to the curing mixture, and stir everything to combine thoroughly.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2. </span> Using a sharp boning knife or paring knife, remove any glands from the underside of the meat. These will look like small off-white bumps that are reasonably hard. Some might be hiding under the surface of the fat and meat, so poke around thoroughly. Believe me, you don’t want them in your finished project.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">3.</span> In a large zip lock bag, combine the cure ingredients and the jowl.Thoroughlyrub the cure into the meat on all sides. Seal the bag and pop it in the fridge for four to seven days. Every other day, redistribute the cure over the meat by rubbing the meat almost in a kneading motion, and when it goes back into the fridge, make sure it’s lying on the opposite side from what it was when you took it out. It will be throwing off some liquid, so make sure those bags remain tightly sealed.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">4.</span> After 4-5 days the meat should feel firmer. It could well be done. Just remember: the longer you keep it in the cure, the more salty your guanciale will become. You certainly want the meat to be thoroughly cured, but you don’t want it to be overly salty, either. The thicker the jowl, the longer it will take to cure. Your first time out, it’s better to err on the side of too salty, rather than under-cured. (Eventually, you’ll be able to tell more clearly when your meat is completely cured.) So if you feel it’s ready, take the jowl out of the fridge, and rinse it thoroughly in cold water to remove the cure. Some of the herbs might stick to the meat and fat, that is fine – just give a good rub over to get the cure off. Dry with paper towel.<br />
<br />
<b>5.</b> Next, wash your jowls in a few ounces of white wine. The reason you do this, is that it helps neutralize the salt used in curing (at least that’s what I’ve been told by Those Who Know). Do the job really thoroughly, rubbing the wine into the meat and fat. By the way, doing this also adds a lovely aroma and flavor to the finished product!<br />
<br />
<b>6.</b> The final step is to heavily coat one or both sides of your guanciale with pepper (see note at bottom). Most used is black pepper, but we’ve also seen (and enjoyed) guanciale that had cayenne pepper applied. If you don’t like pepper, leave this step out.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">7.</span> Make a hole in the narrow end, not too close to the edge of the meat (since it will shrink). Run some butchers string through the hole, tie, and hang at 55°F/75% humidity for at least a month, possibly two if you want a more intense flavor. Your basement in winter should be just cold enough, but you might have to put out some water and a fan to keep the humidity up. We bought a combination thermometer/humidistat for keeping track of it. Don’t let the temperature go above 60° for any lengthy period of time or mold can more easily form.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">8.</span> You will know when your guanciale is ready when it’s lost about 25-35% of its initial weight before hanging. The fat will feel softer than the meat. That is fine.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">9.</span> Once drying is complete, it will keep in the fridge easily for many weeks, or vacuum-sealed and frozen, for far longer.<br />
<br />
––––––––––––––––––––––––– <br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Notes:</span> We strongly recommend removing the skin before curing begins. You could do it after, but why not let the salt penetrate into the meat and fat more easily and speed things up? You will see commercial guanciale with the skin left on. The problem with this is you’ll probably not want to eat cooked pieces with skin on them. It gets very hard as the guanciale dries and isn’t pleasant. Removing the skin after drying is also more difficult. Do yourself a favor and do it ahead of time. If you aren’t equipped to do it yourself, ask your butcher to do it for you.<br />
<br />
What wine to use for the final wash? You don’t need to buy an expensive bottle, but you don’t want plonk, either. A decent Italian pinot grigio won’t set you back much, or a Colli Albani. We prefer Orvieto for its flavor and aroma. Experiment all you want and if you find something you think really works well, please let all of us know!<br />
<br />
We now use our vacuum sealer as part of the curing process. Each piece of guanciale is put into a bag and most of the air is removed, then the bag is sealed. The benefit is two-fold: the bags can’t leak (as long as your seal is sturdy), and the liquid (actually brine) that forms during the curing process is kept close to the meat which speeds up curing and helps keep it even throughout the jowl. Actually, we do this with all the meat we cure, except those things which require soaking in brine (peameal bacon, ham, etc). That’s just easier to do in a plastic bucket.<br />
<br />
Keep an eye on your guanciale while it hangs. I generally check it out every day (takes only seconds). What you want to watch for is any green or black mold forming on it. White mold is okay. It actually adds to the flavor. If you find any green or black mold, if you catch it really early (hence my recommendation to check your guanciale frequently), it can safely be removed by rubbing it with a rag that’s been soaked in white vinegar. If the growth of the mold is well-advanced, then it’s safest to just chuck the meat and take it as a hard-won lesson. We know pepper our guanciale on both sides (What can I say? We like pepper!) and I’m thinking it probably would help keep the bad mold from gaining a foothold. I have no scientific proof this is what happens, but we’ve had no mold on any over the last 8 years since we began making it. That’s at least three dozen cured hog jowls.<br />
<br />
Weigh your guanciale once a week and take it down when it’s lost about a third of its weight. If the humidity in your basement or <a href="http://mattikaarts.com/blog/meat-curing-at-home-the-setup/" target="_blank">drying locker</a> is low, the outer surface will dry out too quickly. The goal is to dry your cured jowl s-l-o-w-l-y, so the process is even, inside and out.<br />
<br />
We keep our guanciale in the freezer (vacuum-sealed) until we need it. Then I just slice off how much I need (easy to do even when it’s frozen because the fat is soft) and seal it in a freezer bag and chuck it back in until next time.<br />
<br />
To our minds, guanciale is <i>essential</i> for three favorite pasta dishes: <a href="http://amanforallseasonings.blogspot.ca/2012/02/there-is-something-about-food_22.html" target="_blank">carbonara</a>, <a href="http://amanforallseasonings.blogspot.ca/2012/04/our-latest-batch-of-guanciale.html" target="_blank">Amatriciana</a>, and alla grigia. We also crisp some up and use it with shredded Brussels sprouts and pine nuts (a recipe I’ll share in the future). It is very fatty, but the rendered fat has a lovely flavor and especially in the three pasta dishes above takes them out of the realm of ordinary eating. If you’ve had any of them made with pancetta or (horrors!) bacon, you’re in for a surprise. That’s exactly what started us off on this culinary side trail.<br />
<br />
*I began working on this post a few weeks ago. We’ve since cured the pancetta and it’s now hanging in the basement drying. However based on the amount of pancetta we went through in the past year, we’re going to need to make more before this drying season is over. Incidentally, we’re now completely out of pancetta and are faced with buying some. Horrors!Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-28386807151708758442017-01-06T12:33:00.001-05:002023-10-18T15:01:25.050-04:00Think you know what Bolognese sauce is? I thought I did.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvUhY714TSJA_vKps4Ytn2wU-5ULzQ1uOi2l3Cy-sg8g2zIN5JVWaR2w6Rmru0HNx_C_9tk-04yp5nqhiVhrZC033tkHSi-EIewnfcFARqgjrRwYX_gpKyIQDouAYW3oXy8mg8zDK1Yc7t/s1600/Ragu_alla_Bolognese.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0.25em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvUhY714TSJA_vKps4Ytn2wU-5ULzQ1uOi2l3Cy-sg8g2zIN5JVWaR2w6Rmru0HNx_C_9tk-04yp5nqhiVhrZC033tkHSi-EIewnfcFARqgjrRwYX_gpKyIQDouAYW3oXy8mg8zDK1Yc7t/s320/Ragu_alla_Bolognese.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
If you’re in North America, you no doubt ate plenty of “spaghetti with meat sauce” over the course of your life. I certainly did, and up until a few years ago, I made it a lot since it was a great meal with a growing family and took not much time to cook.<br />
<br />
Vicki and I went to the UK first in 1990, and there we discovered the Brits call it “Spaghetti Bolognese”. Same dish, different name. Eventually with the rise of “foodie-ism”, the British name crossed the Atlantic and began appearing on menus here. But the dish was not close to being an accurate representation.<br />
<br />
Don’t get me wrong. Spaghetti with meat sauce is decent food, but as I discovered when I started doing in-depth research into this famous dish, what the inhabitants of that northern Italian city consider their most famous dish and what the rest of us <i>thought</i> it is are two completely different things. The Bolognese chapter of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina even went so far as to designate an Official recipe for Ragù alla Bolognese in 1982 and filed it at City Hall.<br />
<br />
Going back to this source (<a href="http://www.itchefs-gvci.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=587&Itemid=976">http://www.itchefs-gvci.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=587&Itemid=976</a>) and following the recipe, I can see why they felt forced to do it. Most of the world knows nothing about how this sauce is made — and that’s a shame. Spaghetti Bolognese is a worthy meal. Real Ragù alla Bolognese is an <i>exceptional</i> meal.<br />
<br />
First thing you notice: not much tomato. What’s there is mostly for color. Second of all, there’s not even a hint of garlic or herbs. Then there are some other eye-popping ingredient choices: carrots, celery, and <i>milk</i>! I (and many others) was used to this dish being marinara with some sautéed ground beef thrown in it. Real Bolognese is a different creature altogether.<br />
<br />
The second important thing to point out is that, outside of Italy, it’s never served over spaghetti. <i>(What?)</i> The pasta used is almost always tagliatelle or its slightly wider cousin, pappardelle. And there’s a very good reason for not using spaghetti. The sauce tends to fall off the thin strands. It sticks to the wider pasta much better. That makes a big difference in how you experience the dish.<br />
<br />
I trust the Italians with knowing about good cooking and my first attempt at authentic Bolognese was an eye-opening experience. It is an intensely meaty sauce with assertive flavours and wonderful aroma, especially while it’s cooking. Long, slow cooking is crucial if you want your sauce to develop its full flavour and silky texture.<br />
<br />
So, if you’ve read the official recipe via the link above, you know what the basic ingredients are and how simple it actually is to prepare this famous dish. But one thing I’ve discovered is that everyone in Bologna (if not in all of Italy) thinks their nonna made the best Bolognese — and all of those recipes are slightly different. Now that I’ve made it several times, I find I’ve added a few flourishes of my own (slight though they are). I like it better, but that’s just me. One version I ran across recently suggests adding a handful of dried porcini mushrooms, reconstituted, chopped finely and added to the sauce (along with the reconstituting water) after the beef and vegetables are cooked. That’s something that I think I’ll try next.<br />
<br />
So here’s what we’ll do. Try the official recipe and I’ll put my slightly-changed one below (because that’s what this blog is about: my views on cooking and food). If you want to try mine, please do. And then let me know what you think. I’ll also include some notes about why you cook it the way you do and the purpose of some of the ingredients.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Rick’s “Mostly Authentic” Ragù alla Bolognese</b></span><br />
<i>Serves 4</i><br />
<br />
<b>INGREDIENTS</b><br />
<ul>
<li>300 gr (10.5 oz) of ground beef (you want a flavourful cut like skirt of chuck, but it should be lean</li>
<li>150 gr (5 oz) unsmoked pancetta (chop it finely rather than grinding it)</li>
<li>50 gr (2 oz) finely chopped onion</li>
<li>50 gr (2 oz) finely chopped carrot</li>
<li>50 gr (2 oz) finely chopped celery</li>
<li>118 ml (.5 cup) red wine — a hearty one</li>
<li>30 gr (1 oz or 4 Tbs) tomato paste</li>
<li>120 ml (.5 cup) tomato sauce</li>
<li>240 ml (1 cup) unsalted beef stock</li>
<li>120 ml (.5 cup) whole milk</li>
<li>olive oil</li>
<li>salt and pepper to taste</li>
<li>400 gr (scant pound) of fresh tagliatelle or pappardelle</li>
</ul>
<b>Notes:</b><br />
If you search the internet for the “official” Bolognese recipe, you will find it in many places with slight variations, and in a few surprising cases, obvious errors. But the basic ideas of the recipe are obvious: not much tomato and a sauce that has little liquid — but tons of flavour!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNctaj_9K_p2iCGeEpIkiliSReM3E_gQQngc8x8GE0QRQ45yi3AZjs5_e2lOouJJ-tYNGk-w-Lb9d-wwgArEO4j7CZX-p9pHkIA8BiDq4UShQA63yzd2cCg_KqTS8bcQpYa6vuzCKsT26O/s1600/Bolognese_Ready%2521.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNctaj_9K_p2iCGeEpIkiliSReM3E_gQQngc8x8GE0QRQ45yi3AZjs5_e2lOouJJ-tYNGk-w-Lb9d-wwgArEO4j7CZX-p9pHkIA8BiDq4UShQA63yzd2cCg_KqTS8bcQpYa6vuzCKsT26O/s320/Bolognese_Ready%2521.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The three vegetables make up what is called a soffritto in Italy. (The French call this mirepoix and it’s part of the “foundation” of many great sauces.) So it’s not surprising it should be found in this recipe. Many people (I’m talking to you, Hannah!) will be surprised by having carrots and celery in their pasta sauce, but there you go. It works. The key here is to make the dice quite small (about 1/8") so that the veggies amalgamate with the meat as it cooks.<br />
<br />
Really good pancetta is critical. We use our own (and if you’re into home curing or feel it’s time to dabble, <a href="http://amanforallseasonings.blogspot.ca/2014/02/home-curing-your-own-pancetta.html">it’s easy to make</a>). You don’t want the piece you use to be too fatty. Both meats should ideally be hand-minced (rather than ground). I’ll admit, since I have a grinder, that I’ll often grind both meats, but I feel if you’re up for mincing something, at least do the pancetta that way. The texture of the sauce will be the better for it. And don’t use smoked pancetta! It just doesn’t work as well.<br />
<br />
The official recipe says that red wine or white wine may be used, but whichever you use should be dry. We prefer red. It doesn’t have to be expensive, but you don’t want a wimpy one. Bold flavour is the key here. An inexpensive Chianti or Nero d’Avola works really well.<br />
<br />
We add some tomato sauce (our own homemade) so the finished ragù a bit more “texture”.<br />
<br />
Milk is used to also add texture and “smooth out” the flavours, especially the tomato.<br />
<br />
Another point where I can’t find a definitive answer is the use of stock or water. Your sauce will definitely need liquid, and to my mind, why not add additional flavour, as well? So I use stock.<br />
<br />
One last word, I’m getting more and more dogmatic about weighing and measuring ingredients accurately — certainly on the first few runs at a new recipe. It helps. I’ve written about using a scale in your kitchen and it’s worth considering if you enjoy cooking — and getting predictable results. If you don’t have a scale, though, don’t despair! For the veggies, a smallish yellow onion, a modest carrot and a good-sized celery stalk will do the trick. The rest of the things can be weighed at the grocery store or using a measuring cup.<br />
<br />
Now, let’s get cooking!<br />
<br />
<b>METHOD</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Over medium heat pour some good-quality olive oil in a heavy pot or small casserole. You want the bottom just covered. When it’s fragrant, add the pancetta and sauté for 3 minutes. Now add the beef and sauté for 3 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Now add the vegetables (and I include a small sprinkle of salt to help sweat the veggies). Doesn’t it smell good? Make sure you thoroughly break up the meat and don’t let this mixture burn! </li>
<li>When the mixture begins to sizzle (indicating all the water from the ingredients has evaporated), add the wine and turn the heat up. Stir the mixture to evaporate it quickly.</li>
<li>When the mixture begins to sizzle again, turn the heat down and add the tomato paste (and tomato sauce if you’re using it), plus the beef stock. Mix well. You want the meat/veg mixture to be covered by about 1 cm of liquid. Use more stock or water if you need it.</li>
<li>Simmer for 2 hours. During that time, stir in a bit of the milk occasionally until it’s all added.</li>
<li>The sauce is done when most of the liquid is gone. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper.</li>
<li>Cook the tagliatelle or fettucine, drain and divide the sauce among four portions. (Best served in heated bowls.)</li>
<li>Serve with freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano only. (Don’t skimp here, please!)</li>
</ol>
A green salad preceding the pasta is a good choice. Italians always serve salads as a separate course, and there’s a good reason for that. The dressing conflicts with the star of the show (and the wine) if it’s all served together.<br />
<br />
A good bottle of red wine should accompany your ragù. Now’s the time to pull out that bottle of Chianti Classico or Brunello you’ve been saving.<br />
<br />
See? No garlic. No herbs. Not much tomato. Real Ragù alla Bolognese. And it tastes amazing.<br />
<br />
Who knew?Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-75194142953235089682016-10-19T15:49:00.000-04:002016-10-19T15:49:31.483-04:00A favourite Italian recipe: seafood linguine<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YdTixpxHRfSIq9_M9blETzDDAw924dms8U1Kx7Hf1hPFCORjKZUmLF9PKYxogrOClIYPxqclL8g30WgrrjaZAF7ca1qjN-jpaz1b1uxLURGXbOpNHFHeXTSxWOyapz_AoscPLErPutrm/s1600/SeafoodLinguine.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 0.25em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YdTixpxHRfSIq9_M9blETzDDAw924dms8U1Kx7Hf1hPFCORjKZUmLF9PKYxogrOClIYPxqclL8g30WgrrjaZAF7ca1qjN-jpaz1b1uxLURGXbOpNHFHeXTSxWOyapz_AoscPLErPutrm/s320/SeafoodLinguine.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner “al fresco” on our anniversary!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Special occasions call for special meals. Our anniversary is one of those very special occasions. Actually, the anniversary Vicki and I celebrate is the date on which we fell in love: June 20, 1970.<br />
<br />
We were at Playland in Rye, New York, sitting on the boardwalk and looking out over the Long Island Sound. The June evening was perfect. She turned to me and said, “I love you.” I’d already been in love with her for a week or more but had been hesitant to proclaim it. You know how I answered back since we’re still together 46 years later.<br />
<br />
Now this post is months later than it should be but back in June we had other concerns and even though we did celebrate this important day, I didn’t have time to write about it. Today is that day!<br />
<br />
We don’t go out to restaurants for important meals because we can generally dine better at home for a lot less money. We’d rather spend out money on great ingredients and fine wines, than having someone else cook for us. Since we have a lovely backyard and June 20th was a very fine day here in Toronto this year, I simply asked Vicki what she would like me to make. “Seafood linguine!” was her immediate two-word response.<br />
<br />
I’ve made this recipe many times over the years, and can vouch for the fact that it’s easy to make — if you follow the directions. And absolutely delicious — if you like seafood.<br />
<br />
And you don’t need to wait for a “big evening” to make this!<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Seafood Linguine</b></span><br />
<i>Serves 4</i><br />
<br />
<b>INGREDIENTS</b><br />
2 Tbs olive oil<br />
3 shallots, chopped<br />
3 garlic cloves, chopped finely<br />
1 tsp lemon rind, grated<br />
½ tsp red chili pepper flakes<br />
2 Tbs fresh parsley, chopped finely<br />
12 large shrimp<br />
6 dry scallops, cut into quarters or thirds (if they’re really large)<br />
salt and pepper to taste<br />
½ cup dry white wine<br />
2 lbs mussels<br />
1 28-oz can crushed tomatoes<br />
¼ cup fresh basil, shredded<br />
1 lb linguine<br />
<br />
<b>METHOD</b><br />
<ol>
<li>In a large skillet, heat olive oil on medium high heat. Add shallots and garlic and sauté for 1 minute or until softened slightly, then add lemon rind, parsley, shrimps and scallops.</li>
<li>Sauté together until shrimps just turn pink and scallops are translucent – about 1-2 minutes. Remove from skillet with slotted spoon. Season lightly with salt and pepper.</li>
<li>Add wine to skillet, bring to a boil and add the mussels. Cover and steam until they open (about 3 minutes). Remove mussels from skillet and reserve with shrimps and scallops. Discard any mussels that have not opened. Remove mussel meats from half the mussels, leaving the rest in their shells.</li>
<li>Put tomatoes and chili flakes into skillet and bring to a boil. Stir in 2 Tbs of basil and simmer for 10 minutes to combine flavors. Season with salt and pepper. (Your sauce can be made ahead to this point.)</li>
<li>When ready to serve: cook pasta until al dente (about 10-12 minutes) in lots of boiling salted water. Drain well.</li>
<li>As pasta is nearing doneness, return the seafood to the sauce, sprinkle in remaining basil and reheat. Toss with pasta and serve.</li>
</ol>
Don’t serve this dish with grated cheese! In Italy cheese is seldom served with Parmigiano or any other cheese.<br />
<br />
The recipe source is a very old issue of <i>Food & Drink</i>, the magazine of the Liquor Control Board of Ontario.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-84933518378754792662016-09-26T11:43:00.001-04:002016-09-26T11:43:29.226-04:00Organizing your kitchen, part 2: the nitty-gritty<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPoX2L2q8zceD7CweKnKXKy3zXmFK7Xu1Zvz6IhgcHQqwYQMzOqt3Chkrm5Va1GeAyKDAzf1cMhF62s7MBHgHCVa07sqsFF2ox5-g3ttAGATHCPJOp2eELxqaN0UGPYuGl7n3-J_Rh1hl-/s1600/UtensilRack.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPoX2L2q8zceD7CweKnKXKy3zXmFK7Xu1Zvz6IhgcHQqwYQMzOqt3Chkrm5Va1GeAyKDAzf1cMhF62s7MBHgHCVa07sqsFF2ox5-g3ttAGATHCPJOp2eELxqaN0UGPYuGl7n3-J_Rh1hl-/s320/UtensilRack.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Something as simple as this can make a big difference in your kitchen.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Last post was all about the big picture in your kitchen, primarily placement of stove, sink, refrigeration and a few other things. Get those right — or have a layout that you can make work for you (I’m thinking galley-type kitchens here, for instance) and you’re well on the way. I get it that not everyone can renovate their kitchen at the drop of a hat. Unless your kitchen is huge and incredibly ill-thought out, you shouldn’t have too many problems, regardless of where the big — and immovable things — have been placed.<br />
<br />
[One last thought before I move on to this post’s details: make sure your kitchen has adequate lighting. The areas where you slice and chop need to be well-lit. This is not a difficult retrofit if your kitchen has poor or dim lighting. A good electrician can help make it happen without too much expense.]<br />
<br />
I’ve found that what <i>really</i> makes the most difference in terms of cooking enjoyment through organization is where you put all those little things, the small tools, specialized utensils and often-used minor appliances.<br />
<br />
Directly to the right of our stovetop is a smallish drawer. This is where we keep things that are used often: tongs (we have 3 we use constantly), extra spatulas, ladles (3), peelers (2), can and bottle openers, wine opener and a few other similar items. <br />
<br />
Next to that is another wider drawer. This holds items that we don’t use quite as often or are small and fit at the front of the drawer a bit better. Here you’ll find our rolling pin, some small spatulas and scrappers, lifters (3), oyster knife, micro graters (2), a mini strainer (for skimming), a couple of small whisks, ice cream scoops, and such things that are very useful but generally used only now and then.<br />
<br />
Also to the right of the stove is a large can-like thing into which we put cooking spoons, some more spatulas and scrapers, and our large whisk. We use these things every time we cook and they’re placed here because they can be grabbed really quickly.<br />
<br />
The key to making this system work is that anyone cooking or cleaning knows <i>exactly</i> what goes where and puts it there <i>every single time</i>. Cooking can get very hectic at times and we’ve all ruined dishes because we’ve been on a utensil hunt at a totally wrong time. Here’s another (hard-won) hint: try to lay out all the utensils you’ll need during the prepping stage. It’s not all about prepping just the food, is it?<br />
<br />
As for the rest of the “hard good” things we use to cook, they’re either in a big catch-all cabinet under the above-mentioned drawers, in an upper cabinet where we also keep our plates and bowls, or across the room on two shelves we put up (for less-used items except for colanders and strainers). Baking pans are either in a wide drawer underneath our built-in oven or in another small cabinet nearby.<br />
<br />
The only mid-range appliances that we keep out on the counters are a microwave (next to the oven), a blender, toaster, Cuisinart, coffee grinder and coffee maker, and our Kitchen Aid mixer. Any other things like these are kept in that lower catch-all cabinet.<br />
<br />
I’ll say it one last time: this will only work if anyone using the kitchen regularly understands that everything must be put away correctly. It may sound difficult but it really isn’t.<br />
<br />
During our very busy days when our two boys were young and we both worked long hours, we didn’t think like this. Stuff got stuffed into drawers and cabinets willy-nilly and just to get it put away <i>somewhere</i>. It was often hell to find them again. This was also when a lot of food got burned or otherwise overcooked. Honestly, it just never dawned on us that we could save massive amounts of time and aggravation through simple organization and diligence. I could slap myself upside the head for being such a dolt to not recognize this. It’s not as if I hadn’t seen it at work in the kitchens when I was doing those cooking gigs.<br />
<br />
To boil down this discussion to its essence (like reducing a fine stock to a single tablespoon of intense flavour), cooking is most enjoyable when you have time to enjoy the process and to pay full attention as heat works its magic on what you’re going to plate and then enjoy at the table. Even the most hair-raising meal of the year (take your pick between Thanksgiving or Christmas in our household) becomes manageable and can sometimes be almost enjoyable.<br />
<br />
All it takes is some reflection on what you generally do in the kitchen, making a plan and then sticking to it.<br />
<br />
My guess is that if you do this, you will also find yourself less tempted to give up and order take-out, pull out the store-bought frozen food or simply head out to a restaurant. Because cooking when everything is organized is relaxing and enjoyable, you may even find yourself looking forward to cooking that evening meal at the end of a long day!<br />
<br />
And wouldn’t that be nice?Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-79078286124162582702016-09-18T15:34:00.000-04:002016-09-18T15:35:23.688-04:00Organizing your kitchen will make cooking FAR more enjoyable!<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wKkh8nQvaoI/V97qk_3_FFI/AAAAAAAADds/weGIRo5unhYDLLiE_Epk0UAB9NQ4bpmSACLcB/s1600/Angry%2BChef.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: .25 em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wKkh8nQvaoI/V97qk_3_FFI/AAAAAAAADds/weGIRo5unhYDLLiE_Epk0UAB9NQ4bpmSACLcB/s320/Angry%2BChef.jpg" width="266" /></a>The two times I worked in restaurant kitchens, it was made pretty clear right from the beginning that things must always be put back in very specific places. If they weren’t, the offending party heard about it immediately. And if it was Chef doing the talking (yelling), it was guaranteed to be an unpleasant experience!<br />
<br />
Over the past few years, I’ve worked hard to organize our kitchen for efficiency. That only requires some thought on what should go where (and why), but then comes the real trick: making sure everyone understands this and puts things back where they belong. No excuses accepted and no quarter given!<br />
<br />
Now that’s not to say I’m a martinet about kitchen organization, but I’m also not afraid to tell my wife or anyone else that if they use something, “Please put it back exactly where you found it.” And I do mean exactly! Since I do most of the cooking around here, it’s recognized that I call the shots.<br />
<br />
The obvious reason for this level of organization is so that the person who’s cooking doesn’t have to waste any time finding the utensils, cooking vessels, or appliances that they need. I’m sure you feel the same way I do about this: there is nothing that frustrates a cook more than to not be able to find what they need and having to waste time looking for it.<br />
<br />
Another benefit of organizing a kitchen to a high level is that you can fit more into it. That can be by necessity if your kitchen is a small one, but it can also make a huge difference in a large kitchen. One step into a restaurant or other kind of commercial kitchen will show you why. The goal is to not only turn out delicious food, but to turn it out as quickly as possible. If you have to cross the room for commonly used things, then you’re wasting precious time, even if it only takes five or ten seconds. During the course of an evening rush, those seconds quickly turn into minutes.<br />
<br />
Okay. So now you know my reasons for organizing my workspace. What is it that I did, exactly?<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uc04D93GqAM/V97o25aRnEI/AAAAAAAADdk/6udc4TlcPLU4siz-1PjMCVUoZbqUSK1-gCLcB/s1600/Cooking.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: .25em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uc04D93GqAM/V97o25aRnEI/AAAAAAAADdk/6udc4TlcPLU4siz-1PjMCVUoZbqUSK1-gCLcB/s320/Cooking.jpg" width="320" /></a>The first thing I did broke the cardinal rule I gave two paragraphs above (at least a little bit): keeping things you use a lot close to you. But in this case, it wound up saving more time.<br />
<br />
We have a counter top gas cooktop against the west wall of our kitchen. The oven is close by on the south wall (basically you turn left and take one step to get there). To the left of the oven is our refrigerator. Our sink is directly across from the oven against the north wall, and about the same distance away. On both side of the cooktop are counters, extending from one thing to another. That’s my “general working area” (and the classic “triangle” set-up of a well laid-out kitchen). To the right of the sink is another counter extending over to our back door. The dish washer is under this. The remaining side of the kitchen has two sets of stairs: one down to the basement and the other up to our bedroom. Along the down stairs (and acting as a railing is a low well to which is mounted our last counter, an 8-foot length we use for plating when we make a large meal or for serving buffet-style meals. I’ll get into the cupboard arrangement later.<br />
<br />
Underneath the stove are two deep drawers. We used to store as many of our pots and pans as would fit in there, along with their lids. This caused two problems. First, we have invested in good cookware and good cookware is heavy. You can guess at the problems we had with the bottoms of these drawers. second, with the number of pots, frypans, skillets, etc. that we own, you’d have to sift through stacks of things to find what you might need right now.<br />
<br />
So my first organizing move (and the one that broke the rule) was something you see in commercial kitchens: hanging pots and pans from a bar mounted to the ceiling. Our kitchen’s ceiling is just eight feet, so hanging these things above my general working area would not have worked. The ideal place to hang the bar was directly above our “staging counter”, which is farther away from the stove. We got one of those heavy duty bars that hangs by means of chains from two large hooks screwed into a conveniently-placed ceiling joist. So someone cooking needs to walk about three steps to the far side of the room to retrieve a pot. Takes a tad longer, right? Well, it does, but it takes far more time to go through the drawers where these things used to reside. Now that’s a good trade to my mind.<br />
<br />
Once we moved the pots and pans, we dedicated the top drawer under the stove to lids, two cast iron skillets that wouldn’t fit on the bar and our pressure cooker that couldn’t hang from the bar. The lower drawer (among other things) fits some small appliances (juicer, coffee mill, etc, some of our large kitchen tools that won’t fit in drawers and our wok.<br />
<br />
This post has gone on long enough for a beginning, but I hope it gives you some starting places for improving your own kitchen’s layout. Trust me when I write that organizing your kitchen into an efficient “factory” for producing food will cut way down on the aggravation factor that many have endure when faced with cooking a meal in an inefficient space. Since I really became a nut about organizing where I spend a lot of time, my enjoyment of cooking something, even a complicated dish, has gone way up.<br />
<br />
Next post, I’ll talk about organizing our cupboards and drawers for our staple items and (many, many) utensils.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-63413616100740769142016-09-14T09:06:00.001-04:002016-09-14T09:06:24.540-04:00Okay, so I lied about getting this blog back onto a normal schedule -or- life has a way of throwing curveballs at youWay back in the dim beginnings of this year, I wrote about getting things back on track here at AMFAS. It’s not difficult to ascertain if you look at the date of the most recent post before this, that I either lied or fell off the face of the earth. Well, it was neither of those things. Sometimes life just has a way to rear up and bite one in the butt and not let go. That was the case with me.<br /><br />I don’t want to go into all the whys and wherefores because that’s not what this little blog dedicated to food is all about. It just happened and there was little I could do about it. However, that didn’t keep me from feeling horribly guilty about it.<br /><br />Anyway, I’m back once again and hopefully it will stick this time because (drum roll and trumpet fanfare, please!), I have “retired”. That’s in quotes because I’ve only stepping down from one job (graphic design) but that will allow me to concentrate on the other things I enjoy doing: writing and music, and of course, cooking and talking about food.<br /><br />Over the past many months, though, we haven’t stopped eating and cooking some great food. So, I’ll have lots of new recipes to share and some thoughts on becoming a better cook and how to enjoy the cooking experience more — especially if you don’t enjoy cooking all that much.<br /><br />I’ve also been doing a lot of reading and research into the food we eat and how it gets to our grocery stores and what might have been done to it along the way. I can promise some of that will be very sobering reading.<br /><br />So stay tuned!<br /><br />Before the week is out, I will be sharing some thoughts on making your kitchen more convenient and easy to work in. That’s a very important thing for anyone, whether they’re interested and enjoy cooking, but especially if you don’t particularly enjoy it and wish to get it done in the shortest amount of time.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-52164082247499326012016-02-13T20:09:00.000-05:002016-02-15T11:20:13.067-05:00Hi there, everyone! It's me.I am determined to get this blog out of the slough of despair in which it currently resides!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC5suKcT-gZzf5ZFHqgM9300GiKIoTUI2Af42gMqrKVk-Thd46fjdKNGGF8Bq0YD-jbLvpfoBBwUd6Z3wEzmwlYhdSM4djHHzC3zUeK6satVhHI8UM_QTdeie7aYuzxTB6MTK0uIMP6VH6/s1600/IMG_3119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC5suKcT-gZzf5ZFHqgM9300GiKIoTUI2Af42gMqrKVk-Thd46fjdKNGGF8Bq0YD-jbLvpfoBBwUd6Z3wEzmwlYhdSM4djHHzC3zUeK6satVhHI8UM_QTdeie7aYuzxTB6MTK0uIMP6VH6/s320/IMG_3119.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
To that end, here is a photo of tonight's dinner in the Blechta household. It's actually our Valentine's Day dinner, which we're having tonight because tomorrow (which is actually Valentine's Day), we'll be on babysitting duty with our grandson while Mommy and Daddy celebrate with a fine restaurant meal.<br />
<br />
Vicki and I both love oysters, and our source for fine oysters at St. Lawrence Market had some primo examples of the bivalves this weekend, so I bought 2 dozen Raspberry Point oysters from PEI.<br />
<br />
In the photo you'll see our shucked oysters (done by moi), a lovely leaf lettuce/arugula/endive salad with white balsamic dressing and a lovely multi-grain baguette we get from our local Sobey's, no less! Accompanying it all is a lovely blanc de blanc bubbly we bought last weekend from <a href="http://kewvineyards.com/">Kew Vineyards</a> in Beamsville, and it's truly a lovely thing.<br />
<br />
Lucky us! And Happy Valentine's Day to you all.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-86234021643270327692015-03-12T13:27:00.003-04:002016-10-19T15:37:33.727-04:00Cretons: a delicacy of old Quebec<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmhK_wZZZeGgTm5HKcqL2j_OBLFMgGqGDNP5G6LLP9tEdPT2ZlO2NSDRNvNqdDmgjHvJ6e2QQamaUtkicSLhdWM1EPYC753s7rLZJUS_14045PNjJYw71tUg1-KLpLF7WaK1evSt88f-ws/s1600/Cretons_and_toast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: .25em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmhK_wZZZeGgTm5HKcqL2j_OBLFMgGqGDNP5G6LLP9tEdPT2ZlO2NSDRNvNqdDmgjHvJ6e2QQamaUtkicSLhdWM1EPYC753s7rLZJUS_14045PNjJYw71tUg1-KLpLF7WaK1evSt88f-ws/s1600/Cretons_and_toast.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cretons and Vicki’s fantastic toast. Mmmm…</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
My wife and I lived in Montreal for a few years while we were attending McGill University. We started out with an apartment in what is known as “the student ghetto”, the area just to the east of the main campus, bounded by Sherbrooke to the south, Aylmer on the west, Pines to the north and over to Parc on the east. Some might tell you it goes over as far as St. Laurent. Our first apartment together was a lovely place on the ground floor of a building at the corner of Hutchison and Prince Arthur, Long, with a big living room and a decent-sized bedroom, its foyer was large enough to hold a single bed, and university friends (one in particular) would crash there often when they couldn’t get back to their homes in the suburbs after a late-night gig. The kitchen was old, but useable and since we didn’t have much time to cook, anyway, it served our purposes.<br />
<br />
Vicki began teaching a few students after school, most of them gotten through our neighbour in the next apartment, Yusuf Emed, who taught music at Beaconsfield High School out on the “West Island”. But she started getting some closer to home, too, as the word spread. <br />
<br />
One of these students was a nice young lady, Claire Guimond, and it turned out her mother was a very fine cook. I don’t know how this particular dish came up in a flute lesson, but we still have the original recipe, courtesy of Claire’s mother on a yellowed sheet of paper. Claire has gone on to become a well-known Baroque flutist. The Guimonds used to serve fried up pieces of cretons with pancakes and real maple syrup (if Vicki’s memory serves). It is quite wonderful that way.<br />
<br />
One was for cretons which goes way back in Quebec culinary history. What makes it really interesting is that this sort of country cousin to to the French terrine is that cretins are mostly eaten at breakfast. I think of it as a sort of grab-and-go meal. Spread over some toast, you can get a quick hit of protein, fat and carb all in an easy-to-carry meal. Grad an apple or whatever fruit you have on hand, and at least you’re going to have something worthwhile in your stomach when you don’t have time for a proper meal.<br />
<br />
You don’t see it all that often on menus in Quebec, certainly not in the better restaurants (probably because they’re usually not open for breakfast). But you will find it on the menu of lots of places, especially once you’re outside Montreal.<br />
<br />
Now that Vicki is occasionally making bread (gotta watch that waistline), we make this a little more often. Sure it can be eaten cold on toast, but you can also cut slices and brown them up for a great addition to an egg breakfast. You can even cook everything together in one pan for an easy cleanup.<br />
<br />
The ingredient list is short and very simple, and making cretins is a piece of cake, even if you’re not an experienced cook.<br />
<br />
So here’s a dish as Canadian as peameal bacon, Nanaimo bars or poutine, just not as well known – which is something that’s always puzzled me.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Cretons</span></b><br />
<i>makes about a pound</i><br />
<br />
<b>INGREDIENTS</b><br />
1/2 cup onion, grated finely<br />
1 lb ground pork<br />
1 cup milk<br />
1 cup shredded bread – no crusts<br />
1/2 tsp cloves<br />
1/2 tsp allspice<br />
3/4 tsp salt<br />
freshly ground pepper<br />
freshly ground nutmeg<br />
<br />
<b>METHOD</b><br />
1. Mix everything together in a bowl.<br />
2. Cook in frying pan, turning occasionally until cooked.<br />
3. Press into loaf pan, chill overnight so it sets well.<br />
4. Cut into slices and serve chilled.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-51157174259975758632015-01-19T18:34:00.000-05:002015-01-20T18:07:46.355-05:00Mastering the art (and science) of cooking<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS8tHVvxqaf61_Yj_hka6E4S6MJyybhBqc8lpxg4QndB_A38Fm0TS8CrwMkxz4y5DZJDhe8In0lDdokqs6UGh6SVIjj_xGr6tlm3l45Udu2B1PVPTJnaDMU0x3oOLoh2bNt3GrisGRFmBx/s1600/Prep.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS8tHVvxqaf61_Yj_hka6E4S6MJyybhBqc8lpxg4QndB_A38Fm0TS8CrwMkxz4y5DZJDhe8In0lDdokqs6UGh6SVIjj_xGr6tlm3l45Udu2B1PVPTJnaDMU0x3oOLoh2bNt3GrisGRFmBx/s1600/Prep.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is how you prep a dish before cooking it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The past little while, we’ve done a lot of cooking and preparing of food around here. <br />
<br />
There was that beautiful pork roast with crackling family dinner we had a couple of weeks ago. I also turned two more hog jowls into guanciale which are now hanging in the basement as they lose moisture and turn more flavorful and succulent. The last of the first batch of lonzino has been sliced, packaged and frozen for enjoyment over the coming months – especially over the summer as a “nibbly” before dinner. I’d run out of smoked roasted almonds, and seeing as “the nut meister”, Karel, was otherwise engaged, I made up a few pounds myself. A small handful is wonderful in the morning with my usual yogurt, bran buds and muesli. Oh! And last week we brined and smoked 3 pork hocks (a gift from Andy at Our Gate to Your Plate), and smoked a kilo of old cheddar.<br />
<br />
My lovely wife has been making and freezing small patties of various kinds for our grandson who comes over for the day twice a week. There are salmon patties made with mashed potatoes or rice, shallots and peas. Fry one up and he’s got a complete meal he can eat with his fork (after the patties have been cut into small pieces). Imagine a one-year-old getting food with sauteed shallots in it! She also froze the remainder of a meatloaf for Jackson.<br />
<br />
Then there’s her fantastic bread which she occasionally makes. (Can’t eat too much bread these days!) It makes the world’s finest toast in my opinion and many mornings start with coffee and buttered toast. Lovely!<br />
<br />
The point of this post, though, is not the great food we’re enjoying but that we enjoy making great food. No, it’s not as quick as ordering out, or opening a can or taking some sort of frozen meal out of the freezer, and a lot less expensive than going out to eat. When people join us for a meal or find out what we’re producing in our small kitchen, the first question we’re generally asked is, “How do you find the time to do all this?”<br />
<br />
The trick is to make the time. The charcuterie, the preserving, the making of bulk food, all is done in order to minimize cooking (and shopping) times later on and allow us to know exactly what’s in what we’re eating, and making it does take a chunk out of your day. Certainly, as I’ve consistently stated, curing, drying and smoking meat is not a huge undertaking in terms of hours, but preparing it and dealing with it at appropriate times is something that has to be considered. Preserving (canning, etc), unless it’s done in small amounts, takes a larger chunk out of your day. The secret here is to do it with other people to minimize the time. You can turn it into a part – and you all get to share the wealth at the end.<br />
<br />
I wrote a post several months back where I talked about the way people often cook that can make it distinctly “un-fun”. That revolves around the prep stage. If you’re doing prep work at the same time you have things on the stove, you’re opening yourself up to a world of hurt (especially if your recipe calls for expensive ingredients, but you’re also boxing yourself into a corner and making preparation of good meal far more stressful than it needs to be.<br />
<br />
I don’t always follow my main rule (but I try to): do all the prep first, then just sit back and enjoy the process of cooking it. You cannot enjoy cooking if you’re trying to chop vegetables while your meat is searing, and the potatoes are being boiled. There are just too many things going on at the same time. The last thing you want is one of those “Oh my God!” moments when you realize that you just overcooked that very expensive cut of meat because you were so focused on chopping the onions that go in next. And forget doing anything else when it’s time to cook fish or seafood where the correct doneness can come down to a matter of seconds. The only respite you can build in if you still need to prep when something’s already cooking is when something you’re cooking has a longer cooking time (like stews, roasts and the like). While something like that is cooking you can, of course, work on a first course or a dessert.<br />
<br />
<i><b>(Sidebar:</b> Which brings me to a rule I </i>never<i> break: when baking always have everything measured out and ready to go before you do anything else. Baking, first and foremost, is chemistry and it requires precision and an understanding of what recipe ingredients do to the finished product. But even if the esoteric part of baking doesn’t interest you, remember this: a baking recipe is not a general guideline. It is a master plan. Always follow it (unless you know a lot about kitchen chemistry) and measure all ingredients carefully before you start.<b>)</b></i><br />
<br />
Unless you’ve worked in a restaurant kitchen, you don’t realize how many ingredients have been prepped first. If a recipe calls for a mirepoix (chopped onions, carrots and celery), that has been already handled by the entremetier (vegetable cutter) earlier in the day. All you need to do is just measure out what you need. Easy, right? How often do you do that when you’re cooking?<br />
<br />
In a home kitchen, one person generally wears all the hats: chef, line cook, entremetier, garde manger, even bottle washer (unless you’re lucky enough to have help). And there’s the rub. Construct a large, involved menu and you need to be super-organized. The prep you do before turning on the stove or oven will be critically important to how everything turns out – unless you get a charge out of extreme stress.<br />
<br />
Take a look at any recipe you’re going to undertake and make sure you understand all the steps. Prep and measure all the ingredients. Read the cooking method again. Start to cook, carefully and with thought. Watch what happens. Your food is changing in structure due to the heat. It’s very zen-like and calming to watch this process.<br />
<br />
If you’ve planned your moves well and in advance, I guarantee you’ll enjoy what you’ve done, especially when you taste it!Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-47236870544232099842015-01-02T15:47:00.000-05:002015-01-02T16:11:18.061-05:00Sourcing your food sensibly: From Our Gate to Your Plate<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-12k9sfgdIv8/VKcC8_Y2a6I/AAAAAAAAC5c/Gcl-ghq60SA/s1600/lotus-fresh-supermarket-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-12k9sfgdIv8/VKcC8_Y2a6I/AAAAAAAAC5c/Gcl-ghq60SA/s1600/lotus-fresh-supermarket-3.jpg" height="193" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For the past several months I’ve been giving pretty short shrift to one of the important facets of this little blog of mine: knowing how and where the food you’re putting in your body is grown – and who is doing it. If you’ve hung around here for any length of time, you know how I feel about this, but suffice it to say that I am more than willing to make the effort to do this.<br />
<br />
The way we now shop was driven home very viscerally over the holiday while staying with my mother-in-law and doing <i>a lot</i> of cooking. (We even brought our vacuum sealer!) Basically, since my MIL is getting up in years and has never really liked to cook, whenever we visit, I have been making her complete frozen meals and then vacuum sealing them so they keep extra long.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Ug3SdPfCy0/VKcC9fUujFI/AAAAAAAAC5g/KbSP__8yR1c/s1600/Galloway_Cattle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Ug3SdPfCy0/VKcC9fUujFI/AAAAAAAAC5g/KbSP__8yR1c/s1600/Galloway_Cattle.jpg" height="222" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Or this?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Of course I had to do a lot of shopping in order to make what turned out to be 53 meals. There are no farmers markets in the area at that time of year, so off I went to the local Shop Rite. Since we hardly use supermarkets anymore for things other than toilet paper and the like, I was not prepared for what awaited me. Most of the fruit and vegetables were not all that terrific but I picked as judiciously as I could. It’s difficult since a lot of the offerings were prepackaged. I understand the economics of that, but buying a package and then having to pick through things carefully to make sure it’s all good is irritating to say the least.<br />
<br />
The meat I bought was an even worse experience. I bought two pork tenderloins and a pork loin. All three were packaged by the meat packer, Hormel, one of the biggest in the US. All three pieces were covered in some kind of very thick slime which I think was applied to keep the meat smelling fresher after some days. At least that’s what I hope was the reason. Either way it was difficult to wash off and felt disgustingly greasy. At the bottom of a styrofoam try holding chicken parts, there was an absorbent pad. Now, what I bought (boneless, skinless chicken thighs) do not leak a lot, but the pad was saturated and weighed 3 ounces. Great, I paid for 3 ounces of wetness. The worst part was the chicken and pork had very little taste. Sure, I paid a cheap price, but that shouldn’t be the biggest concern when you’re nourishing yourself and your family.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VPgNGUKRyWQ/VKcDJQRfUVI/AAAAAAAAC50/aLVlXRd53Hk/s1600/Large_Black_Pigs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: .5em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VPgNGUKRyWQ/VKcDJQRfUVI/AAAAAAAAC50/aLVlXRd53Hk/s1600/Large_Black_Pigs.jpg" height="169" width="320" /></a></div>
Two days after returning, I had a completely different experience. We spent New Year’s with some dear friends, but before getting there we visited a very special farm: <a href="http://www.ourgatetoyourplate.ca/"><b>Our Plate to Your Gate</b></a> (click on the name to visit their website). The enthusiastic farmer, Andy Sproston, raises heritage breeds in the most natural way possible. No feed lot herds, no concrete-floored pig barns or crowded sheep pens. His beef from Galloway cattle are completely grass-fed the way beef is supposed to be raised. His hogs (Tamworth, Large Black, and Hampshire), during the good weather, live in the woodlot at the back of his property. Chickens, ducks, geese, guinea fowl, pheasants, and turkeys roam the farmyard. The Romney sheep spend their days out in a pasture.<br />
<br />
We’ve visited — and purchased — here before and each thing we’ve brought home has been fantastic. Generally, what he has on offer is frozen, and I will say that someone coming directly from a place like Shop Rite might make gasp at the prices, but the quality and flavor of Andy’s meats will quickly make you realize that he actually isn’t charging all that much for the quality that you’re getting. You’d easily pay as much at a good butcher shop.<br />
<br />
On our previous visit, I’d bought 4 hog jowls for guanciale and they’re just ready now. They smell fantastic and I can’t wait to make some carbonara or amatriciana using it. We’ve also previously purchased stewing beef and the resulting stews were the best I’ve ever made, richly flavorful and very tender. We’ve also had his Octoberfest sausages (the best I’ve tasted) and his eggs are superior to any I’ve found around Toronto with the exception of some a farmer friend will occasionally sell to us.<br />
<br />
Everything from Our Gate to Your Plate is pastured or (honestly) free-range, the lamb and beef is grass-fed only, and the hogs are allowed to forage in the woods as much as possible. All animals are growth hormone- and drug-free. The goal is to raise everything as close to the animals’ natural habits as possible. Their meat is seriously good.<br />
<br />
If you live in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area), it’s a lovely drive to Grimsby where the farm is located on the Niagara Escarpment above the town. Take a cooler, make your purchase then enjoy a day visiting wineries and sightseeing.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-slIMJa47sHU/VKcC9tvPnGI/AAAAAAAAC5k/m_Lw3FEu1A4/s1600/Bronze_Turkeys.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: .5 em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-slIMJa47sHU/VKcC9tvPnGI/AAAAAAAAC5k/m_Lw3FEu1A4/s1600/Bronze_Turkeys.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you’re interested, Andy has a few frozen birds left!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I did notice one thing on this visit: even though there are animals all over the place, it doesn’t really have that “barnyard smell” (something I actually don’t mind at all, though some do). Andy is good with his animals, very concerned for their welfare and attentive to their needs. Our Gate to Your Plate obviously gets my enthusiastic approval. <br />
<br />
The fact that our most recent visit to Andy’s farm came hard on the heels of my distressing experience with a big American supermarket (although the Canadian ones aren’t any better) drives the point home soundly that you can find meat (and vegetables and fruit) that really are worth buying, cooking and eating. Yes, you will have to pay a bit more, but it is completely worth it. If the money is so great a concern, simply buy less.<br />
<br />
Farms like Andy’s need our support. If you have a local farmers market, patronize it. Get to know the folks who are growing your food. The returns are far greater than the effort put in to acomplish this. Plus, the money you’re paying is going directly into the farmers’ hands, not into the pockets of middlemen and people to whom selling food is just a job. If there aren’t farmers markets where you live, search out the small greengrocers and butchers. Generally they know a fair bit about the food they are selling.<br />
<br />
And if you’re lucky enough to have someone like Andy around, make the effort to get to know them. Your return will be one hundredfold.<br />
<br />
<i>[<b>Sidebar:</b> We bought from Andy a beautiful bone-in pork shoulder roast with skin-on for crackling. That’s going to be slow-cooked for tomorrow night’s dinner with our family. I will be taking photos and it’s going to be a feast with mashed potatoes, gravy, homemade apple sauce with horseradish (a favorite with roast pork) and the best green vegetable we can find. We haven’t decided on dessert yet. Maybe some cheese and fruit.]</i>Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-69201125973173964522014-12-26T11:50:00.001-05:002014-12-28T08:35:59.474-05:00Tis the season — for curing meat! (The 2014 Lonzino Report)I’ve got a break from Christmas dinner prep and wanted to get this out to everyone.<br />
<br />
With the cold months now firmly entrenched, we’ve been busy with some home curing of meat. So far it’s only involved pork, but we’re also looking forward to making a bit of bresaola (cured dried beef) and possibly some duck prosciutto. Those latter two will have to wait until the new year.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMghJo_J6m97sCSqYBNUuJrianL0gNxoly7wvfH5y3kocowYZOy3hukK6rTZtlvaLaQmve35WCO8sW1dUzh4jgpsAXuIswXl64PvlzuAD9V29nl7sbugUlrdjGUQzXMxMDaOpGankHcevh/s1600/Lonzino1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMghJo_J6m97sCSqYBNUuJrianL0gNxoly7wvfH5y3kocowYZOy3hukK6rTZtlvaLaQmve35WCO8sW1dUzh4jgpsAXuIswXl64PvlzuAD9V29nl7sbugUlrdjGUQzXMxMDaOpGankHcevh/s1600/Lonzino1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning the drying stage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our lonzino has been a <i>huge</i> hit with everyone who’s tasted it. I thought we’d run out by August before discovering two vacuum-sealed packages that had somehow migrated to the wrong shelf in our freezer, so rather than having to disappoint some friends who’d asked if we were serving it before a meal in September, I could at least bring out a small sample.<br />
<br />
<i>(<b>Sidebar:</b> We’ve had our sealer for a year now (it was my big Christmas gift in 2013) and it has certainly earned its keep. If those two packages of lonzino hadn’t been vacuum packed, they would have been inedible due to ice crystals and freezer burn. I’ll be doing an update on the sealer soon, but I will say now that if you’re seriously into home curing, you’ve </i>got<i> to have one of these. It makes a huge difference – unless you’re going to consume everything fresh.)</i><br />
<br />
If you’re not familiar with exactly what lonzino is, I’ve already written about it: <a href="http://amanforallseasonings.blogspot.com/2013/02/more-home-curing-making-your-own-lonzino.html">Making your own lonzino</a>. I tend to think of it as “poor man’s proscuitto” but that’s not quite fair. It is a wonderful (and easy!) thing to make, and if you don’t want to have a pig’s hind leg hanging in your basement for a few months, a very good alternative to making your own proscuitto at home.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiozIrwDehnT8fbKb5qmfMH-k_PR3OzJyU2JgH4Lt5TdInXxBAo2lEebYLfr_2fbtCc8WyOC_xCSmgWhj5eTEL4rnvqqD6iA7jxwzlFBlavoPK9Yk8hQOvfNHIwLiytas3H4WUjW-5ksakR/s1600/lonzino2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiozIrwDehnT8fbKb5qmfMH-k_PR3OzJyU2JgH4Lt5TdInXxBAo2lEebYLfr_2fbtCc8WyOC_xCSmgWhj5eTEL4rnvqqD6iA7jxwzlFBlavoPK9Yk8hQOvfNHIwLiytas3H4WUjW-5ksakR/s1600/lonzino2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dried and ready for slicing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As for our recipe (it’s included in the post linked above), we’ve gotten it to the point where we’re not fooling around with it anymore. We may try something completely different. I was recently talking to another avid home-curer and his recipe doesn’t include any fennel seed but does feature a lot of lemon zest and sounds quite intriguing. We may try it in a second batch scheduled for sometime in early February.<br />
<br />
Now that our lonzino is finished, all that remains is to slice it thinly and then vacuum seal it in manageable portions. For the moment it’s “resting” in the fridge. You’ll notice in the photo to the left that one piece picked up a bit of white mold while drying – a good thing since this actually adds to the flavor of dried meat. You <i>do not</i> want green or black mold on drying meat. If you find it, wipe it off immediately with a cloth soaked in vinegar. If it persists, throw your meat or sausage away. Sadly, it’s beyond salvaging.<br />
<br />
We’ve learned a couple of things about making superb lonzino along the way in the past year which I’d like to share with you all:<br />
<ul>
<li>Toasting is definitely the way to go to bring out the full flavor of not only the fennel seeds but also the juniper berries. We’ve gotten a small grinder which we use only for herbs (it’s original function was to grind coffee beans) and it does a much more uniform – and quicker – job than a traditional mortar and pestle.</li>
<li>If you’ve got a vacuum sealer, you can make perfect use of it in curing meat. I use it to make sealed (but not vacuum sealed!) bags to hold the meat while the salt and spices do their thing. Simply plunk the meat in a vacuum bag along with the cure, suck out a big of the air and then seal it. You won’t have to worry about unintentional leaks while the meat is curing in your fridge and overhauling <i>(rubbing the cure in additionally every other day while the meat is curing)</i> is simplicity itself. I’ve just bought a couple of rolls of vacuum sealer bags so that I will now be able to custom-cut bags of a perfect size to hold the meat.</li>
<li>I’ve tried using cheesecloth to wrap lonzino to slow down the drying of the outside layer and not had great results. To my mind, beef bungs (as a natural product) or synthetic salami casings (punctured to admit a bit more air) gives the best results for even drying. You don’t want the outside of the lonzino to get too dry and hard before the inside dries out enough. Even drying throughout is the goal and I feel beef bungs (click <b><a href="http://www.fao.org/docrep/003/x6556e/x6556e03.htm">HERE</a></b> for an explanation: the info is partway down the page) give the best result.</li>
<li>I’m probably a bit too anal about the way I tie the supporting string (using four strings instead of two), but it looks really pro, doesn’t it? Once you’ve strung up a half dozen or so, you can do a good job pretty quickly. Your finished product (especially if you’re generous to give away a whole one) will look very impressive. One project for the new year is to shoot a video explaining how to do it. Stay tuned for that.</li>
<li>If you’re going to go to the trouble of making something like lonzino, you really need a deli slicer. Trying to slice thinly enough is just too difficult manually even with a razor sharp knife. If you don’t own a slicer, maybe your butcher or a deli where you’re a good customer would slice if for you.</li>
<li>While lonzino is cured, it will still eventually spoil if it sits around long enough. That means you’re probably going to need to freeze at least some of it. If you can’t vacuum seal it first, don’t bother sealing. Your packages will form ice crystals in a short time, and when you get around to thawing the frozen lonzino for serving, you’ll be very disappointed in the results. Again, try asking your butcher to do a bit of vacuum sealing for you if you don’t have your own unit.</li>
</ul>
I know there’s a lot of information above, but I do not want you to think that making your own fantastic lonzino is difficult and requires all kinds of specialized gear and expensive gadgets. It doesn’t. Even beef bungs are easy to source and can be ordered online or going to visit a butcher supply outfit. You may have to buy a half-dozen at a time, but the ones I just used have been sitting at the back of the fridge for over a year. If you don’t have a vacuum sealer to custom make a bag for holding the meat while it cures, simply make use of a large freezer bag or even a ceramic baking dish covered with plastic wrap. Hanging the meat only requires a cool place (60°F or lower) and reasonable humidity (around 75%) for effective drying. Our basement is that cool if I close all the furnace ducts. If you have a cantina in your house, you’ve got a perfect spot. Don’t have either? Ask friends. I’m going to be playing host to some salamis in the new year since a butcher friend lives in an apartment and wants to make some. (I may charge a “fee” of a bit of his finished product in return…)<br />
<br />
Next up on the curing front: this year’s first batch of guanciale, and boy, have we sourced some fantastic hog jowls this time out!<br />
<br />Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-51565726340183943082014-12-03T08:23:00.000-05:002014-12-04T09:33:02.040-05:00It’s easy to make your own sauerkraut!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5_iOIWs_HCiSFLXdvajXp7cKi33OKafVjoD5YFsILPi_W5pVwY41JvqvmZu1lQ0VMBo4YJA_1rPgYPn8X2ZqFLv6YmBMClFL1qcDKAQ8-bjRSz4Gf9F164hE9SUPVnwLuTuLJOcSBGGi/s1600/Sauerkraut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5_iOIWs_HCiSFLXdvajXp7cKi33OKafVjoD5YFsILPi_W5pVwY41JvqvmZu1lQ0VMBo4YJA_1rPgYPn8X2ZqFLv6YmBMClFL1qcDKAQ8-bjRSz4Gf9F164hE9SUPVnwLuTuLJOcSBGGi/s1600/Sauerkraut.jpg" height="245" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emptying the crock of the finished kapusta before <br />
it’s frozen for later use.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For the past three years, we have been part of a group led by the indomitable Henry Gluch and put together for the sole purpose of making sauerkraut (or kapusta – since he’s Polish). Henry and his wife Madeleine are part of our group that gets together at the end of every summer to make tomato sauce. This year they also joined Vicki and me to preserve a number of liters of chopped tomatoes. Henry’s also a hell of a sax and clarinet player.<br />
<br />
My wife and I are both half German, so sauerkraut was part of our lives from an early age. I must admit that I didn’t really enjoy it that much. I know now that it was because my mother bought the kraut at the supermarket. It was salty, sort of mushy and didn’t have a particularly pleasant taste or aroma – at least as far as this young eater was concerned. Whenever it was served, I tried surreptitiously feeding it to our dog (who was always interested in “people food”), but he wasn’t having any, either. My wife, on the other hand, enjoyed it very much. <i>(That didn’t come out quite the way I mentioned it. I have </i>never<i> tried to feed my wife anything under the table, surreptitiously or otherwise!)</i><br />
<br />
The first time I tasted sauerkraut that piqued my interest was at the Naschmarkt in Vienna which we visited while researching my novel, <i>Cemetery of the Nameless</i>. The samples we were given by someone who made it fresh right in the market was world’s away from what I was used to. Flavorful, crunchy and piquant all at the same time, it really opened my eyes.<br />
<br />
When Henry mentioned making sauerkraut, we were immediately onboard. It is a very simple thing to make: shredded cabbage and pickling or kosher salt are all you actually need. Put a few inches of cabbage into a crock, sprinkle on a couple tablespoons of salt, any herbs you want to use (we like juniper berries, bay leaf and black peppercorns), and pound it hard with something until some water is released. We used a rubber mallet until Madeleine came up with a carved wooden pounder of ancient vintage. Pile in another layer of cabbage, more salt and herbs and do it again. Eventually you want to fill the crock to about two inches from the rim. Then you put a plate on it to weigh it down, cover it with a cloth and put it into a cold place to form more brine – hence the plate – and the sauerkraut will pickle itself in just a few weeks (depending on how cold your space is). The only drawback is that it’s a bit stinky while it’s fermenting. Henry has a cantina below his porch that’s perfect — and it has a door so the smell is contained. He skims off the gray scum that forms on the top of the sauerkraut as it’s pickling. That’s basically all there is to it.<br />
<br />
Our recipe for cooking it (if you want) is based on a recipe Henry’s mother uses – more or less. It’s easy, fairly quick and very tasty. On a cold night, you can’t beat it. It also is a great dish for a slow cooker. Throw it together and leave it to cook for 4-6 hours and it will be ready when you get home from work in the evening. I’d suggest keeping the sausage to kielbasa in this case. And I would cook the bacon first, too.<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>Baked Sauerkraut with Sausage</b></span></div>
<i>Serves 4</i><br />
<br />
<b>INGREDIENTS</b><br />
3 rashers of bacon, sliced across into quarter-inch strips<br />
2 Tbs bacon fat, butter or oil (bacon fat is the best here!)<br />
1 1/2 cup onion, sliced finely<br />
1 cup grated carrot<br />
2 cups thinly sliced fresh cabbage<br />
4 cups raw sauerkraut<br />
12 juniper berries, crushed with the side of a knife or using a mortar and pestle<br />
1/2 tsp smoked paprika<br />
1 1/2 tsp caraway seeds<br />
1 bay leaf<br />
1-2 Tbs dark brown sugar<br />
freshly ground black pepper to taste<br />
1 cup semi-dry wine (Reisling or Gruner Veltliner are lovely)<br />
2 Tbs apple cider vinegar<br />
1 cup chicken stock (more may be needed)<br />
4 fresh pork sausages or some big chunks of kielbasa<br />
<br />
<b>METHOD</b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><b>Preheat oven to 325°</b>. Fry the bacon slowly in an oven-proof casserole so the fat renders out. When done, remove the cooked bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve. Use the rendered bacon fat to sauté the vegetables.</li>
<li>Gently sauté the onion and carrot in the fat until softened but not browned. Add the fresh cabbage and cook a few minutes longer until the cabbage has wilted.</li>
<li>If your sauerkraut is too salty, put it in a colander, run it under some water, and squeeze it dry. Then add it to the casserole.</li>
<li>Add the rest of the ingredients, except the sausage (don’t forget to put the bacon back in!), and mix it all together gently while continuing to heat to a boil.</li>
<li>Cover the casserole and place it in the oven. Bake for 30-45 minutes (depending on how crunchy you like the sauerkraut. If you enjoy your sauerkraut soft, bake longer, up to two hours if you want it very tender. Regardless, watch the liquid level. Add water or a little more stock if necessary. You don’t want it swimming in liquid, but it must be moist.</li>
<li>If you’re using fresh sausage, bake it in the oven alongside the sauerkraut for about 20 minutes so some of the fat renders out. (You don’t need to cook kielbasa first.) Add the sausage to the sauerkraut, nestling it in as much as possible.</li>
<li>Continue baking for another twenty minutes. Serve with mashed potatoes, latkes, or perogies (with sour cream!). Finish off that bottle of wine with it, too!</li>
</ol>
Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-52233547746777404482014-11-20T15:27:00.000-05:002014-11-24T21:09:46.441-05:00Not too many things say Thanksgiving like cranberry sauce<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-us9US3Lrzfo/VG5Lu7x6vaI/AAAAAAAAC2I/Ayx9kA630Rw/s1600/Ocean-Spray-Cranberry-Sauce-Jellied-14-oz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: .25em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-us9US3Lrzfo/VG5Lu7x6vaI/AAAAAAAAC2I/Ayx9kA630Rw/s320/Ocean-Spray-Cranberry-Sauce-Jellied-14-oz.jpg" height="200" width="196" /></a>For me, one of the quickest, easiest, and tastiest things on the Thanksgiving table has to be homemade cranberry sauce. We’ve already had Thanksgiving up here in Canada, but the big day has yet to arrive south of the 49th parallel. If you’ve ever bought a can of what they euphemistically label “Cranberry Sauce” at the supermarket, opened it and then put that on your table, shame on you! Turkey with stuffing and gravy is a difficult part of the meal, dessert usually means something like pie, and those aren’t easy to make well, but cranberry sauce? Well, it doesn’t get much easier to cook from scratch than cranberry sauce.<br />
<br />
I’ll bet most people who buy fresh cranberries at Thanksgiving simply read the recipe on the back of the bag and go with that. I did for about 10 years (I can only plead laziness, I guess). It turned out okay, but each year the amount of sugar bothered me more and more. When sugar is the first thing you taste, that’s not a good thing. Cranberries are pretty tart and need sugar, but the flavor is also pretty darn tasty, too. I want that hit of cranberry on my tongue first. Besides, a little tartness is a good thing. With that in mind, I began by adjusting the sugar down to a level where the berry flavor could shine through. Then running across a recipe that included zested orange and lemon peel as additions, I added those. Before I bought a zester, which makes beautiful long pieces of zest very quickly, I used to do it by hand, cutting off piece of peel and then trimming off the bitter white pith on the underside of the peel, not difficult, but somewhat time-consuming. Using a zester makes it a snap. Best of all, they’re dirt cheap. You can find them at any good kitchen supply store.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_y9buN4U-aALIZ15hW1Xd1CoRVEcKsLj5uGEv9guGr-uZ8nPQA54Uj5XGaE0nG9-cmbjTp_yzaRaqJuSEaQSGBcUe83lsPpHnv1emvJCiIRH0X1f0R_FVNPXL6Pj39TWKKiYl0L-l3D_/s1600/thickenedsauce.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_y9buN4U-aALIZ15hW1Xd1CoRVEcKsLj5uGEv9guGr-uZ8nPQA54Uj5XGaE0nG9-cmbjTp_yzaRaqJuSEaQSGBcUe83lsPpHnv1emvJCiIRH0X1f0R_FVNPXL6Pj39TWKKiYl0L-l3D_/s320/thickenedsauce.jpg" /></a></div>
Finally, I had a brainstorm: I'd seen cranberry sauce recipes included orange juice, so why not drop the lemon peel, stick to orange (I now zest the entire peel), then juice it after and use that for the liquid? With a good-sized navel orange you get almost a cup of juice and that’s all you need for a bag (two cups) of berries.<br />
<br />
Spices go excellently with cranberries, so I use just enough allspice, cloves, and nutmeg to compliment but not mask the fruit and that completes the recipe.<br />
<br />
Make it a day in advance so the sauce’s ingredients can meld and improve. If you’ve put it in the fridge (recommended) to do this, bring it up to room temperature before serving so the aroma and flavors are at their peak. If you make it on the day, then just leave it on the counter.<br />
<br />
After that, all you have to do is put it in a pretty serving dish, stick a spoon in, and you’ve got a lovely accompaniment to your turkey dinner!<br />
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Cranberry/Orange Sauce </span></b><br />
<i>Serves 10-12</i><br />
<br />
<b>Ingredients</b><br />
1 cup freshly-squeezed orange juice (1 large navel orange)<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
orange zest from the orange (zest it before squeezing the juice out)</div>
1 pkg fresh cranberries (3 cups)<br />
½ cup light brown sugar<br />
1 tsp allspice<br />
½ tsp ground cloves<br />
a bit of freshly-grated nutmeg<br />
<br />
<b>Method</b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li> Zest the orange then juice it. You should be able to get enough juice if the orange is big. If not, just make up the difference with water.</li>
<li> Put the 1 cup of orange juice into a saucepan along with the sugar. Over medium heat, begin stirring to dissolve it.</li>
<li> While that’s going on, rinse the cranberries in a colander. Throw away any that have brown spots. Now add the cranberries, orange zest and the three spices to the juice/water/sugar solution.</li>
<li>Stirring occasionally, continue cooking over medium high heat until most of the cranberries have split open and the sauce is getting thick.</li>
<li>If you’re not serving the sauce that day, refrigerate it, but bring it up to room temperature before serving for full flavor.</li>
</ol>
<br />
<br />Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-7172074554210085262014-11-06T15:15:00.002-05:002014-11-06T15:15:44.868-05:00What we’ve been up to the past month and a bit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cmpoY4FLud0/VFvVzbbXJaI/AAAAAAAACz0/VZNgo1rHJ8w/s1600/thanksgiving-wallpaper-hd-7-600x450.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cmpoY4FLud0/VFvVzbbXJaI/AAAAAAAACz0/VZNgo1rHJ8w/s1600/thanksgiving-wallpaper-hd-7-600x450.gif" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Once fall rolls around, we seem to completely change our daily menu. Soups are more prevalent, as are soups and stews. We still had a bit of canning/preserving to get finished up. This year we left it too long and didn’t have access to our lovely local peaches (from Niagara), so we had to use others to make my wife’s terrific mango and peach chutney. That’s now completed and ready to enjoy. This year’s batch we made slightly hotter than in previous years. It’s lovely. We also experimented with pickled beets, which, while good, are probably going to need to be tweaked in the recipe department.<br />
<br />
Once the basement cools off (below 60°F), we can begin our yearly meat curing. Up to now that’s included guanciale (hog jowl), pancetta (pork belly) and lonzino (boneless pork loin). We’re getting close which is a good thing. We have only one chunk (a half jowl’s worth) of guanciale left, 3 small packages of lonzino, and we’re pretty good for pancetta at the moment. This year, we’re also going to make some bresaola (cured dried beef) and maybe some duck proscuitto. (Update: the basement is now below 50° and things are looking positive so the first things we’re going to make is lonzino because we ate all that we made last year!)<br />
<br />
Soups are also on the menu (we <i>love</i> soup around here) and the nice thing about soup is you can easily make enough in one go to enjoy it for several meals. It’s also an easy thing to take to work. Look for the soup maven around here (Vicki) to share some more of her terrific recipes: Pasta e Fagioli, Pumpkin, Manhattan Clam Chowder, French Canadian Pea Soup, and more. If you enjoy homemade soup, over the next few months, you’ll get your fill!<br />
<br />
We also have a number of great stew recipes, and what’s better on a very cold night than a warming stew. We’ve shared a few of them, but there are many more to come. Look forward to Chicken Cacciatore, <span class="st">Ysgyryd Fawr</span> Sausage Stew, Greek Stew, Chicken Stew, Brasso Steak, Pork Paprikash, Beef Short Ribs and even Cassoulet.<br />
<br />
Finally, A Man for All Seasonings is not just about sharing food recipes. It’s also about the current state of farming, the food industry, and our food supply. I have a number of posts underway about all of these topics and they will be shared as soon as I’ve completed my research.<br />
<br />
So while I’ve been very busy with my newly-released novel over the past month, I haven’t forgotten my food blog. Stay tuned for more!Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-74628599566545993682014-09-28T15:12:00.001-04:002014-10-01T17:06:37.967-04:00Playing Hooky!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwYDc-vc0P1sDXca3MUgOB2CtfW-AZ2LPzVf0gS0pEGeZfzAeTxXPw4DXyWzGgJ13wO8lmpRH55fLcMJRK24S_yXvIwdb2EWjVx6lmdO6-Jh32M_s_bclNLR27QCI9gzP4yL5Gjui83TI-/s1600/Lobster+Salad+Roll.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwYDc-vc0P1sDXca3MUgOB2CtfW-AZ2LPzVf0gS0pEGeZfzAeTxXPw4DXyWzGgJ13wO8lmpRH55fLcMJRK24S_yXvIwdb2EWjVx6lmdO6-Jh32M_s_bclNLR27QCI9gzP4yL5Gjui83TI-/s1600/Lobster+Salad+Roll.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
A few weeks ago my wife, Vicki, and I buggered off for a day (as our late and great friend David Younger would have said). It was going to be a gorgeous warm day, school was back in session and we hadn’t been to the Toronto Islands in a dog’s age.<br />
<br />
I got up early to do a bit of prep for our meal (more on that later, of course!) and we made our plans for a really terrific day off.<br />
<br />
The Toronto Islands are a string of low islands protecting our Inner Harbour. Most of it is a public park, although at one end is a small community (the existence of which is a hotly debated topic) and at the other end is the Toronto City Centre Airport (also a very hotly debated topic). The narrow channels between the small islets are often filled with paddle boats, canoes and kayaks, and to enjoy the walkways and paths of the main island, you can rent two- and four-wheel pedal operated vehicles (you can’t call a four-wheeled vehicle a bicycle now, can you?) by the hour. Learn more <a href="http://www1.toronto.ca/wps/portal/contentonly?vgnextoid=34e9dada600f0410VgnVCM10000071d60f89RCRD"><b>HERE</b></a>.<br />
<br />
We’ve always wanted to do that, do we did. Pedaling leisurely took us about 20 minutes to get to Ward Island where the houses are and it was really quite enjoyable. There wasn’t time to get to the opposite end (where the nude beach is, oh là là!), so we have that to look forward to in a future trip.<br />
<br />
Getting there is a large part of the fun. Ferries leave frequently from the terminal at the foot of Bay Street, so you get a lake voyage as part of your day, always pleasant. There are also views of mighty Lake Ontario from the boardwalks and beaches on the western side of Centre Island. And did we mention the small amusement park and farm (closed because the season was over)? We used to take our boys there for a special day out when they were little<br />
<br />
One reason for going during the week was to avoid crowds. Unfortunately, that didn’t work out quite as planned because the island was swarmed by university kids doing team building type things, so when it came time to find a place for our picnic (a big part of our excursion) we had to really hunt around to find something away from the madding crowd. But find one we did.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5U6F1HhZifl9r0k8cwUfXmSFLbeNGS3gES_6xLUZtxWJI1Gvc_zSSt4JTC2K5CNHc-cz38Fgt-XihE2MK2KxRZsDfFFS5jcvwS354EG4g7AIV8r0pErTj1rdIx9e76eMQ3yDLhe4-cEaC/s1600/Vicki_Picnic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5U6F1HhZifl9r0k8cwUfXmSFLbeNGS3gES_6xLUZtxWJI1Gvc_zSSt4JTC2K5CNHc-cz38Fgt-XihE2MK2KxRZsDfFFS5jcvwS354EG4g7AIV8r0pErTj1rdIx9e76eMQ3yDLhe4-cEaC/s1600/Vicki_Picnic.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My beautiful companion for the day!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now, for our special day, we needed something special to eat, right? A family favorite for picnics is cold fried chicken and buttered rye bread, but I’d been wanting to make lobster rolls all summer long and this was my opportunity. Vicki has never met a lobster that she hasn’t wanted to eat, so she was enthusiastic as well. A trip to the fish market was called for!<br />
<br />
So today, I’m going to share our favorite recipe for this summertime treat. I suppose it should be called “Lobster Salad Roll” since the true “Lobster Roll” (originating in Connecticut) is traditionally served warm with the chunks of lobster having been heating in drawn butter. Still, our recipe is very nice flavored as it is with fresh tarragon (always a great choice with crustaceans) and makes a lovely picnic main course. I believe we found the basis for this on epicurious.com.<br />
<br />
That day on the Toronto Islands, it tasted better than ever — but that’s probably because we were enjoying the perfect late summer weather while playing hooky!<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>Lobster Salad Roll</b></span><br />
<i>serves 4</i><br />
<br />
<b>INGREDIENTS</b><br />
2 one-and-a-half-pound lobsters boiled and chilled thoroughly<br />
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots<br />
2 Tbs fresh lemon juice<br />
1/4 tsp salt<br />
scant 1/4 tsp of freshly grated black pepper<br />
3-4 Tbs mayonnaise<br />
2 Tbs chopped fresh tarragon<br />
a touch of Tobasco sauce<br />
some Boston lettuce leaves<br />
4 soft-crust rolls (hot dog rolls if you must!)<br />
<br />
<b>METHOD</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Extract the all the meat from each lobster: claws, joints and the tails. If they were boiled, you may need to squeeze the meat gently, either in a colander with the back of a spoon or even just in your hand to get rid of excess liquid. If you don’t know how to clean a lobster, here’s an excellent video on how to do it and get the pieces out in large chunks which suits this recipe:<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="259" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/F3LF9fetaZg" width="460"></iframe></li>
<li>Combine the shallots, lemon juice and salt and let it stand at room temperature for 1/2 hour.</li>
<li>Next, chop up the meat (discard tomalley and any roe) and cut meat into 1/2-inch pieces.</li>
<li>Whisk together remaining ingredients into the shallot mixture, then add the lobster meat and toss it gently until coated.</li>
<li>Toast and butter the buns generously. Line the inside with boston lettuce and load in the lobster!</li>
</ol>
This is especially good with a chilled sauvignon blanc or pouilly fuisse.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-39520222166253087612014-09-17T11:05:00.002-04:002015-01-25T09:31:35.671-05:00A little trip to the world’s most unique city: Venice<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnRjfaMNQGY86yDFJe8fQ_MnaDmAnkBM7hUQry2HZcmenvdqXxWRExj6vx_YlkthfAE3lVwtnc-VHCTen_w18tQzCK3mh2a1q8y51OK5Jitsgsfz-3eU5Er8OQKnuwo4Aer81vHOysJhCM/s1600/Venetian_backwater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnRjfaMNQGY86yDFJe8fQ_MnaDmAnkBM7hUQry2HZcmenvdqXxWRExj6vx_YlkthfAE3lVwtnc-VHCTen_w18tQzCK3mh2a1q8y51OK5Jitsgsfz-3eU5Er8OQKnuwo4Aer81vHOysJhCM/s1600/Venetian_backwater.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Venetian backwater. Gorgeous, no?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In June 2011, my wife and I had the very good fortune to be able to visit Italy. The trip wasn’t all for giggles, though. I had a crime novel underway (barely) and part of it was going to be set in Italia. The finished product of this trip, <b><i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Roses-Diva-Rick-Blechta/dp/1459721918/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1410966272&sr=1-1&keywords=roses+for+a+diva">Roses for a Diva</a></i></b>, will be available for you to buy in less than a month if you so desire.<br />
<br />
But that’s not really what this post is about. While in Italy, we ate and cooked a lot of great food. Seriously. We stayed only in places where we could cook. If I had to pick my favourite of the locations visited — a <i>really</i> tough assignment — it would have to be that legendary city on the water, Venezia.<br />
<br />
In honor of our first visit, the weather cooperated — an important point in late June when days and nights can be hot and humid — and we had only one short daytime shower to “suffer” through. We were out and about every day from early morning to dusk, visiting locations that I might want to use in my book (read <i>Roses</i> to see what famous places made the cut), and to just get a feel for this most unique city. Our camera was busy throughout, as well, and we have well over a hundred reference photos which I relied on quite heavily while writing the Venetian portion of the book.<br />
<br />
As for cooking and eating, we had a one-bedroom apartment in the eastern part of the city just off Via Garibaldi. Our “kitchen” consisted of an alcove that could only fit one person, a two-burner electric hot plate with a tiny fridge underneath it, and a sink that didn’t work all that well. If you’ve read some of my earlier posts on our trip, you’ll know that we had a “traveling larder” consisting of fresh and canned tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, pasta, fruit and oil and vinegar along with some herbs and spices. We also always had or eye out for a good bakery, <i>fruttivendolo</i> or other place where we could pick up something interesting.<br />
<br />
Just down Via Garibaldi there was a small market during the early part of the day, and we bought a fish that I cooked within hours. I have no idea what it was, but it was fresh and very good. We also picked up some of the best cherries I’ve ever eaten right off a small boat tied to the side of the canal at the end of the street.<br />
<br />
It was all very atmospheric, and during our 4-day visit, we got a good feel for what it’s like to live in this city. As a sidebar, I just loved wandering around, having no idea where we were going. Even if you get hopelessly lost, just keep going. Eventually you’ll get to the shore on the other side of the city, and then it’s just a matter of walking to the next <i>vaporetto</i> stop where you can get a ride on one of the city’s “water buses” that circle the island as well as plying their way up and down the Grand Canal, and to the outlying islands. If you’re ever in Venice, I guarantee if you try this, you will see a lot of unexpected and interesting things. The city is just full of “unexpected”.<br />
<br />
But all of this is <i>still</i> not why I’m writing this post.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0tAP_S44tlXOUekfj2jCZWI6XQkot9AfeYeur2bZlu_PNPcXJ8GX3fgC0Hft1DHuvAxAZyhTDgKJqJyNQAvULxtM7prt1DFHgUqWdmzthDOY4A9Fs8ZKqXI9U-6yYJcST6AFhu_OyWf79/s1600/spaghetti_con_salsa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0tAP_S44tlXOUekfj2jCZWI6XQkot9AfeYeur2bZlu_PNPcXJ8GX3fgC0Hft1DHuvAxAZyhTDgKJqJyNQAvULxtM7prt1DFHgUqWdmzthDOY4A9Fs8ZKqXI9U-6yYJcST6AFhu_OyWf79/s1600/spaghetti_con_salsa.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Served at an intimate dinner on our patio.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
My wife, Vicki, bought a cookbook recently, and browsing through it, I found a Venetian pasta dish that looked too good not to try: <i>Bigoli con salsa d’acciughe</i>. For those of you who don’t speak Italian — as my darling wife does — this means “bigoli pasta with anchovy sauce”. It’s considered one of the signature dishes of Venice. We love anchovies around here — and to prove that, we normally have a large tin of salted ones in the back of our fridge — so this recipe really caught my eye. A real specialty of Venice and it has anchovies as a main ingredient? What more could we want?<br />
<br />
It did not disappoint, even though I made a very critical boo-boo when measuring things the first time I made it. We were only make a half-recipe and I got everything right except for halving the amount of anchovies we needed. The dish was certainly not inedible by any means, but it was awfully salty. Eager to rectify that and be able to make a proper assessment of the recipe, I tried again a week later. This time it proved to be really delicious, especially the combination of anchovies (salty and pungent) and onions (sweet), the sauce’s two main ingredients. With a really good cold-pressed virgin olive oil, you get a very attractive fruitiness, and the crunch of the breadcrumbs is lovely.<br />
<br />
<i><b>A note on bigoli:</b> This is not a well-known pasta shape outside of Italy and it originated in Venice or the Veneto. The best description is “a larger version of bucatini”. In other words, it’s a long thick tube about as thick as a wooden knitting needle. Originally, it was made with buckwheat, but it’s now more often than not made with whole wheat (</i>integrale<i>). Thus far, we’ve been unable to find bigoli in Toronto, so we used spaghetti, although bucatini would probably have been a better traditional choice.</i><br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Bigoli con salsa d’acciughe / Bigoli with anchovy sauce</span><br />
<i>Serves 4</i><br />
<br />
<b>INGREDIENTS</b><br />
1 1/3 cups fresh breadcrumbs<br />
2/3 cup cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil<br />
3 Tbs minced Italian parsley (don’t use dried parsley!)<br />
salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />
4 1/2 cups thinly sliced red onion (I’m not kidding. It will cook <i>way</i> down)<br />
3 oz anchovy fillets, chopped<br />
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes<br />
1 pound bigoli, bucatini or spaghetti pasta<br />
<br />
<b>METHOD</b><br />
<ol>
<li>If you don’t know how to make fresh breadcrumbs, it’s easy. Take a loaf of white or whole wheat bread, cut off the crusts and use a food processor or blender (our choice) to turn them into crumbs. Freeze any extra in a plastic bag from which you’ve sucked the air (to keep ice from forming).</li>
<li>Over a medium flame, heat “to the point of fragrance” (love that term!) 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a wide skillet, then add the bread crumbs. Stirring constantly, toast them until they’re golden brown and crisp. Remove them from the skillet and stir in the minced parsley, a touch of salt and a good grinding of black pepper. Set aside.</li>
<li>Cut the onions in half longitudinally (top to bottom), then slice each half very thinly.</li>
<li>Rinse thoroughly and then fillet the anchovies if you’re using the salt-packed ones (and they’re far superior for the usual anchovy filets in oil you find in grocery stores). It’s not complicated. Using a very sharp, thin bladed knife (like a paring knife), start at the tail and cut along the backbone towards the front of the fish. (It’s not hard to cut the filet in one large piece once you get the knack.) Flip the fish over and cut the meat of the other side. Some larger bones may be around the front of the fish, some guts also, so just pull these off with your fingers. I don’t bother removing any fins. They dissolve during cooking, same thing for the fish’s tiny bones. If any meat remains along the backbone, pull it off with your fingers. If you’re using the oil packed fillets, just drain them on some paper towels.</li>
<li>Any anchovies are heavily salted during processing and that can make this dish too salty for some tastes since you’re using a lot of them. If that’s the case for you, soak them for 10 minutes in milk. This will leach out some of the salt. Dry carefully on paper towels if you do this. An alternative — and what I do — is to use little salt in the pasta water. End the anchovy prep by chopping the anchovies relatively finely.</li>
<li>Heat the remaining olive oil in the skillet (now clean again) until the point of fragrance and cook the sliced onion slowly (don’t let it brown) until it’s very soft (about 20 minutes). A couple of pinches of salt will aid the process.</li>
<li>Start heating the water for the pasta.</li>
<li>Add the anchovies to the sauce, mashing them into the onions. You want them dissolve into the sauce.</li>
<li>Once the water is at a rolling boil, add salt to the water but not heavily (see above). Cook the pasta until done. Reserve about a cup of the pasta water.</li>
<li>Turn up the heat under the sauce and stir in a half cup of the pasta water and add the red pepper flakes. Break up the onion/anchovy mixture as best you can. Add the cooked pasta and two thirds of the breadcrumbs and toss throughly, further separating the clumps of onions and anchovies. Add more pasta water if it’s too dry. We generally serve pasta courses in large soup bowls. Whatever you use, make sure they’re heated! Plate each portion and divide up the remaining breadcrumbs, sprinkling them over each.</li>
</ol>
Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-83409978771816759562014-09-03T21:35:00.001-04:002014-09-03T21:37:07.887-04:00So many tomatoes, so little timeSince we love food around here, especially fruit and vegetables in season, we eagerly look forward to three sings as summer rolls into August: corn, peaches and tomatoes. <br />
<br />
For the corn, we want it fresh out of the field with tender kernels and a sweet taste. We don’t care what variety it is, just that its fresh and sweet, and of course, tender.<br />
<br />
For the peaches, we want them either off our own tree in the back corner of our yard (none this year sadly, because of a late frost) or picked a day or two before down in the orchards of Niagara and at their peak of perfection. I like to slice them up to eat them. We also have a quick, easy and mega-great peach kuchen recipe which is a treasured memory of my mother. Over the years we’ve made hundreds of these things. You can find the recipe by clicking <b><a href="http://amanforallseasonings.blogspot.ca/2012/10/and-now-for-short-break-in-germany.html">HERE</a></b>.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-kmoh_B6G-K9Jhm9CAb_UcP9p7A6c3fZJntmnGNkwtGsySLURrm4l9ffYyKFs7liOCFQYgntHgJ7y2tx4D2y_Yv1mWg651db2CWhOOZ0M37UrmkNXLz6PeqDPvsVhyphenhyphenehfn3cho5dn9iz/s1600/Ready+for+the+oven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-kmoh_B6G-K9Jhm9CAb_UcP9p7A6c3fZJntmnGNkwtGsySLURrm4l9ffYyKFs7liOCFQYgntHgJ7y2tx4D2y_Yv1mWg651db2CWhOOZ0M37UrmkNXLz6PeqDPvsVhyphenhyphenehfn3cho5dn9iz/s1600/Ready+for+the+oven.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for the oven.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But for me, I wait for the tomatoes. We grow beefsteaks (Big Beef), cherry tomatoes (Sweet 100) and San Marzanos. Even with only nine plants, on a good year, we get snowed under. Thing is, tomatoes are only worth eating when they’ve been vine-ripened. They’re best when they haven’t been refrigerated (ever!) and for me, I like them still warm from the afternoon sun. This year, even considering how cool our evenings have been (the essential thing to get your tomatoes to <i>really</i> ripen perfectly), our crop is really outstanding, huge perfectly ripe and flavorful fruits. This is what tomatoes are all about!<br />
<br />
Off-season, tomatoes are not worth buying (at least in North America). Even the “vine-ripened” ones are a joke: thin tasting, not sweet, mealy or still hard. The tomato industry is only interested in tomatoes that last for a long time, look good and transport well. Taste? That’s way down on their list.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSqKEw4048DrBnGskqwq6PEb0S2xZdTPYYj9m2lcF9DywOuUdFwTrrTh2gZn-N78xNnGdqu5duAwdVNCKSTnSwLjMKtQd2LAqupftXUPuWcERZ0V-6RoiLMJ2bx0-35jxyshkiFTofmUqg/s1600/Ready+for+the+table.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSqKEw4048DrBnGskqwq6PEb0S2xZdTPYYj9m2lcF9DywOuUdFwTrrTh2gZn-N78xNnGdqu5duAwdVNCKSTnSwLjMKtQd2LAqupftXUPuWcERZ0V-6RoiLMJ2bx0-35jxyshkiFTofmUqg/s1600/Ready+for+the+table.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for the table. Yum!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I’ve ranted about this before, so let’s not beat a dead horse. The best tomato is one right out of the field, or preferably your own garden. Period. We will forgo tomatoes the rest of the year and live for those 6-8 weeks where we have them at their peak. And for us, that’s right now.<br />
<br />
One of our favorite ways to make them is grilled. There’s little that’s better than slicing a big one in half, sprinkling it with some herbs, spices and raining down a bit of bread crumbs before popping it under the broiler and cooking it until it browned and a tiny bit shriveled. If you started with tomatoes at room temperature, they’ll be nicely warmed through. With some grilled meat, you’ve got a match made in heaven.<br />
<br />
So without further ado, here’s our grilled tomato recipe: quick, easy, and absolutely delicious!<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>Grilled Tomatoes</b></span><br />
<i>(serves 2-4, depending on how much other food you’re serving)</i><br />
<br />
<b>Ingredients</b><br />
2 ripe and juicy beefsteak-type tomatoes<br />
granulated garlic (about the only time we use it)<br />
salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />
Worcestershire sauce<br />
fresh breadcrumbs<br />
olive oil<br />
shredded fresh basil leaves for garnish<br />
<br />
<b>Method</b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Cut the tomatoes in half longitudinally. Cut the stem portion away on the top piece, and the flower stub away on the bottom piece (if it’s there). Place them cut side up in a baking pan, an oven-proof frying pan or just make a tray out of aluminum foil.</li>
<li>Sprinkle the top of each tomato with granulated garlic, a bit of salt and a good grinding of black pepper. I usually sprinkle about a half teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce on each one. Put a good bit of breadcrumbs on top of the tomatoes next and then drizzle on some good quality olive oil to finish up.</li>
<li>I find it best to put the tomatoes in a 350° oven for 10-15 minutes. Quite often I’m using the oven for some meat, so I remove the tomatoes, cook the meat (steak or pork tenderloin anyone?), then while it rests, you can pop the tomatoes under the broiler until the bread crumbs toast up nicely.</li>
<li>Just before serving, thinly slice some basil leaves and sprinkle them over the top of the breadcrumbs. Serve these piping hot!</li>
</ol>
<br />
<br />
And that’s it. With perfectly ripe tomatoes, this is a dish you’ll dream about for the next ten months until the tomatoes are ripe once again.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-69045644347584941532014-08-29T23:38:00.002-04:002014-08-31T11:32:51.276-04:00Another far-too-long hiatusI know, I know. I promised my faithful readers of this blog that I was going to be better about posting regularly and yet there’s yet again been an interval the length of a bible between this post and the last. Actually, it would be more accurate to say that there’s been a gap of a season. Last time I wrote here summer had yet to begin, now it’s about to fade into autumn. All I can do is apologize. Excuses are not warranted and just won’t cut it. I was just too busy.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaikbqdyoYzyB4NL2RgJ1J6xBPEBe2zVNocBf0QXs3qO730ys-uBd2-CejpMetW776Mn7E90X77LB58pqn8sU8I0LZQq4NZDJpej43_0Ii9dH-Ol7p9KcWa7TEjB_xXArmgRjnWRChk7v4/s1600/nemco-n565003-1-2-easy-chopper-ii-vegetable-dicer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaikbqdyoYzyB4NL2RgJ1J6xBPEBe2zVNocBf0QXs3qO730ys-uBd2-CejpMetW776Mn7E90X77LB58pqn8sU8I0LZQq4NZDJpej43_0Ii9dH-Ol7p9KcWa7TEjB_xXArmgRjnWRChk7v4/s1600/nemco-n565003-1-2-easy-chopper-ii-vegetable-dicer.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a>However, that’s not to say I haven’t been thinking about food and doing lots of cooking. With summer’s bounty in its procession from early radishes, baby lettuce, asparagus, to mid-summer’s beans, peas, cherries and berries, to what’s currently available: corn, tomatoes, peaches and potatoes, we have been enjoying being outdoors eating food that is at its freshest. Our garden this summer has provided amazing lettuce, tomatoes (beefsteak, cherry and San Marzanos), and carrots. We’re about to dig up some potatoes (our big experiment this summer) and dig into our row of swiss chard. The only bummer was the fact our tomato plants produced so abundantly that the weight of the fruit slid the vines right down the poles. Clearly, this will have to be dealt with next year since the plants suffered and could not be pulled up again without completely severing the vines.<br />
<br />
And speaking of tomatoes, we’re about to begin processing. We’ve already processed about 4 liters-worth of chopped tomatoes. Sauce will come in two weekends when our loyal crew assembles for another enjoyable day on the patio, talking, slicing, boiling and grinding until the fruits of our labour are finally resting in hot jars, after which we’ll sit down to a communal feast. It’s always one of the best days of summer.<br />
<br />
But getting back to chopped tomatoes…<br />
<br />
We use a lot of them over the course of the year, not only for pasta dishes like amatriciana, but also in soups and stews. Last year we used two bushels of San Marzanos – the best choice because of flavor and few seeds – and for Vicki and me (the only crew that day) it was a long slog. Why? Because once the skins were removed , they had to be chopped by hand. I did most of this because I’m faster with a knife, but trust me, it gets pretty tedious and hand-cramping.<br />
<br />
I was surfing through webstaurantstore.com (where I’ve bough professional cooking gear like our sliced and vacuum sealer) and low and behold, I ran across choppers. This is a professional piece of kitchen gear, very sturdy with a body made of cast aluminum and stainless steel. You can dice mountains of vegetables in no time (with they’d had one at the National Club when I worked there), and while it’s not something we’ll use every day, it looked like it would be a godsend when we’re doing our yearly chopped tomatoes and chutney. So I plunked down money for one with a 1/4” razor grid (you can get different sized inserts).<br />
<br />
Yesterday, we used it for the first time on some San Marzanos we’d picked earlier in the week and which didn’t look as if they’d make it to the weekend when we plan to do the bulk of our processing. Let me tell you, the chopper works like a dream. I chopped 4 liters-worth of tomatoes in about 1 minute (and I wasn’t going top speed). By hand, it would have taken 15 minutes or more.<br />
<br />
Those professional cooks really know what they’re doing when they suggest a design for something, which is what happened here, I’m sure.<br />
<br />
So, if you’re interested, below is a photo and a link, so you can check it out. I have to say it’s a great kitchen tool, a bit pricey perhaps for some tastes, but built to give you years of service and replacement blades and parts are readily available. It cleans very easily and quickly. What’s not to like?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.webstaurantstore.com/nemco-n56500-3-1-2-easy-chopper-ii-vegetable-dicer/591N565003.html">http://www.webstaurantstore.com/nemco-n56500-3-1-2-easy-chopper-ii-vegetable-dicer/591N565003.html</a><br />
<br />
A late review of the chopper’s first use to chop 3 bushels of tomatoes yesterday: It worked really well. Because we were processing so many tomatoes, we had to stop and clean the pusher a few times. They got clogged with some of the strands where some tomatoes weren’t completely ripe at the top. A butter knife and some running water fixed that up quickly and easily.<br />
<br />
Also, because tomato juices get sticky, you have to keep the two slider poles clean. I eventually got tired of wiping them off, so I used some oil. One of the suggested oils to use is mineral oil which I couldn’t find, although I know we have some. I used some olive oil and that seemed to work fine, although I still had to wipe off the poles now and then.<br />
<br />
Cleaning the whole unit was not difficult. You’ve got to respect those razor blades, though, and move slowly and deliberately! The unit is heavy, being cast aluminum, and you don’t want it to slip while you’re holding it in soapy water. Ours did, and even though it just nicked the tip of one finger, I got a pretty good cut. It’s best to let it air dry.<br />
<br />
All in all, we’re very happy with this purchase. It will last for many years, so for us the cost is worthwhile. We also used it to dice some eggplants and a Spanish onion as part of our dinner prep, and it was a breeze.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-18180269140772436672014-06-02T10:18:00.001-04:002014-09-28T16:06:51.095-04:00The GREAT outdoors <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1UOQr9piDdayLLo9ZzTLOBC-e1ahovVx2S7tUuCwiaBcAk8FwOGFLi0kjZzdwUve6Md5UWGKIy_kdKmctZBaUXF5k4D5xsQbs-wzX4wW8dKAMDql672TDboCltCdit7A0l3FsqHem2wkc/s1600/IMG_0957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1UOQr9piDdayLLo9ZzTLOBC-e1ahovVx2S7tUuCwiaBcAk8FwOGFLi0kjZzdwUve6Md5UWGKIy_kdKmctZBaUXF5k4D5xsQbs-wzX4wW8dKAMDql672TDboCltCdit7A0l3FsqHem2wkc/s1600/IMG_0957.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>This post (after an unexpected hiatus of regularly updating AMFAS: work again) will be sort of a scattergun update since a lot has been going on in our kitchen and backyard.<br />
<br />
Going down to the St. Lawrence Market as my son Karel and I do every week, we’re sort of in touch with the change of seasons on farms in our area, even if we don’t set foot out of Toronto. Bob Taylor, our go-to person for all things potato was telling us a few weeks ago that he hadn’t been able to get into his fields to plant yet because the ground was still too wet. His asparagus beds, though, were showing signs of life. The very next week he had the first of the new season. We quickly snapped up two bunches and it was the star of our dinner that night. Here in Ontario, it’s now the height of the season, so we’re taking advantage of it in a big way.<br />
<br />
Enjoying any vegetable at its peak is a unique experience. We all think of sweet corn at the top of this list, but it extends to most other vegetables. Sadly, only a few improve with storage or being left in the ground (Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, and kale spring to mind). Several years ago, we grew broccoli in our (sadly, very small) vegetable garden (most of our backyard is given over to my wife’s wonderful flower beds), and it was astonishing how good this vegetable tastes when it’s just been picked, still warm from the afternoon sun. Twenty-four hours later, it’s still quite<br />
nice, but just not the same. Ditto for tomatoes. I like nothing better than to pick a tomato, wash and slice it, and then enjoy it immediately with a touch of salt and pepper. It’s a summer gift which sadly can’t be recreated in the dead of winter with the crummy tomatoes you find in supermarkets. Even in Italy where vine ripened tomatoes are always available, you can’t find anything that approaches the flavor of a tomato right out of your garden.<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i><b>(Tip:</b> Never put a tomato in your fridge. They’ll won’t come back out the same. The texture will change for the worse and the flavor won’t be as good.<b>)</b></i><br />
<br />
Warm weather also means cooking and eating outdoors. With this year’s very slow spring we didn’t even think of eating outdoors until several days into May. Fortunately, Mother’s Day was glorious so we could enjoy that special day (with new mother Rena) out on our patio. The hops we grow on wires above the fence that surrounds it were well over two weeks behind. <i>(If anyone is interested, our hop blossoms – outstanding quality I’ve been told, and additionally, they’re organic – are free for the taking in September when they’re ripe since we don’t brew our own beer…yet.)</i> Since we like to always be widening our horizons, I’ve been thinking about what we might try this summer.<br />
<br />
Vicki bought me an early Father’s Day present of a slotted pan with handles on which to cook delicate things like vegetables and fish. We tried it out last night and cooked shrimp and something new: fresh sardines. I bought two of these beauties at Domenick’s, our favorite fish monger at the market.<br />
<br />
I prepped them with a brushing of the wonderful organic Greek olive oil we get at the Dufferin Grove Market, a tiny bit of salt and pepper and put them on the hot grill pan. They cooked quickly and turned easily. The shrimp were marinated in a bit of Asian hot sauce, garlic, olive oil, teriyaki sauce and black pepper. At the table, both were both were given a squeeze of fresh lemon. I’ve grilled shrimp this way before, but the sardines were a revelation. We both sopped up a bit of the shrimp marinade on our plates which added to the enjoyment. We’re <i>definitely</i> going to be doing this again! It should come as no surprise that the accompanying vegetable was asparagus from our friend Bob.<br />
<br />
Too often these days time is pressing, we’re tired from work and it’s just easier to heat up some prepared food or another, or to head out to a restaurant (if you have the cash). Of course there’s always the siren song of fast food places (especially if you have young ones).<br />
<br />
To make our fantastic meal last night took almost no time at all. I prepped the sardines and asparagus, started the charcoal and got the rice pilaf cooking in the time it took Vicki to peel 16 shrimp. While the fire heated and the pilaf cooked, we enjoyed a glass of wine on our garden swing. Cooking the shrimp and fish was quick and Vicki sauteed the asparagus during that time. All told, it took about a 45 minutes out of our lives (minus the time spent waiting for the charcoal to be ready). If we went to the local McDonalds, we would have spent as much time driving and waiting in line – for what? Junk food at its worst.<br />
<br />
Instead we enjoyed a marvelous meal for which we would have paid at least $50 in a restaurant. And we had our wonderful backyard to enjoy at the same time.<br />
<br />
Life is good.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-65042133138210012682014-04-30T11:57:00.001-04:002014-04-30T11:58:42.404-04:00More about rabbit and our go-to butcherHere’s an addendum to the rabbit post just below. Today, on the <i>Toronto Star</i> website, I found this clip:<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<object classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=9,0,47,0" height="270" id="flashObj" width="480"><param name="movie" value="http://c.brightcove.com/services/viewer/federated_f9?isVid=1&isUI=1" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="flashVars" value="videoId=3517219725001&playerID=794231239001&playerKey=AQ~~,AAAAuO4KaJE~,gatFNwSKdGBGeWpGVW1SlPf2wMgVucjb&domain=embed&dynamicStreaming=true" /><param name="base" value="http://admin.brightcove.com" /><param name="seamlesstabbing" value="false" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="swLiveConnect" value="true" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><embed src="http://c.brightcove.com/services/viewer/federated_f9?isVid=1&isUI=1" bgcolor="#FFFFFF" flashVars="videoId=3517219725001&playerID=794231239001&playerKey=AQ~~,AAAAuO4KaJE~,gatFNwSKdGBGeWpGVW1SlPf2wMgVucjb&domain=embed&dynamicStreaming=true" base="http://admin.brightcove.com" name="flashObj" width="480" height="270" seamlesstabbing="false" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" swLiveConnect="true" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/shockwave/download/index.cgi?P1_Prod_Version=ShockwaveFlash"></embed></object></div>
<br />
The “story behind the story” is this: Gasparro’s is the butcher shop where we buy almost all of our meat, including the rabbit used in the recipe I shared with you. Nick is the “managing brother” and a delightful person – as is everyone who works there. And they know Italian food! They even make their own guanciale.<br />
<br />
Too bad the interviewer is a bit of a ditz. She didn’t even bother to check how the family name is pronounced.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-12337721296444701722014-04-27T20:44:00.000-04:002014-04-30T09:12:00.135-04:00I know it’s still pretty close to Easter, but…It’s no secret that we like food that’s a little out of the ordinary around here, and we’re also not scared to cook just about anything, but somehow when we talk about certain things certain times, friends and relatives sometimes look askance at us. Today’s recipe is one of those occasions.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKzJLxgOwgAxJ3WYH8osaBMENdEfc4BEFyV0POXUQl9yrHchh1-s-Q9JWsXL1toFMNBWqY3jGLImqHFUEwcaTA2z9EfJIVMDD4R2BsBALgwn-4uOShfagzKN8KhNqvz6FV8pcSEd-GED1j/s1600/Rabbit_Stew.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKzJLxgOwgAxJ3WYH8osaBMENdEfc4BEFyV0POXUQl9yrHchh1-s-Q9JWsXL1toFMNBWqY3jGLImqHFUEwcaTA2z9EfJIVMDD4R2BsBALgwn-4uOShfagzKN8KhNqvz6FV8pcSEd-GED1j/s1600/Rabbit_Stew.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rabbit Stew with pappardelle and Brussels sprouts. Yum!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It’s part of my nature, I guess, to sometimes take the mickey with people, so I’m fond of suggesting that we have venison at Christmas or rabbit at Easter. I am slightly serious because we have some excellent recipes for cooking both. As a matter of fact, when our boys were younger we used to buy a half carcass of farmed red deer, and everyone enjoyed it mightily. There was many a Sunday dinner consisting of pan fried venison steaks (cut thin and cooked fast), mashed potatoes, hot veg, a jus made from the pan drippings and a bit of venison stock, as well as fried onions with paprika. We’d still purchase more, but our friends sold off their herd. I never did manage to talk anyone into venison at Christmas (turkey has been the main course every year for the past 44), but I don’t plan on giving up.<br />
<br />
Then there’s the Easter bunny. I <i>really</i> like rabbit and will order it in a heartbeat if it’s on a restaurant menu. What’s odd here is that my family had a pet rabbit when I was younger, a huge white one named Mr. Hoppity. I don’t remember how he came to live with us, but he wasn’t a baby. I have this vague memory that he just hopped into the yard and stayed. Regardless, we had a big cage for him that would be moved around the lawn for our most efficient clipper. Along with some rabbit pellets, he also got damaged lettuce leaves from the garden, carrots and he loved apples (of which we had a lot because of two full-size apple trees on our side lawn). Problem was, he caused my mother to have rather severe asthma attacks. On the coldest days of winter he lived in the basement in a pen my dad built down there. One winter my mother had a severe attack – and that was it for Mr. Hoppity. He disappeared immediately, and I have no clear idea where he went off to. We lived in a very Italian neighborhood, so I have always harbored certain suspicions…<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcFNJktEIA8l1-LQ7tl4BtIWDayONb1g6kWnkSItEjAxL4hqbeA-sMn6Dc6n_r5S2KDqEQR8vhP_ASJYCb5PbSqzqH5iMm0vMDPInSh1yJrgN69Q7S0gz8aEU30DcUSJ8L3UjjyKXokNy_/s1600/Marinating+Rabbit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcFNJktEIA8l1-LQ7tl4BtIWDayONb1g6kWnkSItEjAxL4hqbeA-sMn6Dc6n_r5S2KDqEQR8vhP_ASJYCb5PbSqzqH5iMm0vMDPInSh1yJrgN69Q7S0gz8aEU30DcUSJ8L3UjjyKXokNy_/s1600/Marinating+Rabbit.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marinating the rabbit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Anyway, people who don’t understand how we can eat cute little creatures like bunnies have obviously never had them around destroying their vegetable gardens. It’s amazing the amount of damage one or two rabbits can do in just a few days. Deer, too, for that matter. Vicki put in some beautiful hosta plants for her mother a few years back, nice big specimens, too. Next morning? Little green nubbins. Everything was gone. I couldn’t have done a better job with a sharp knife.<br />
<br />
So there’s the background. I’m unrepentant about enjoying consuming Santa’s sled pullers, and those fuzzy creatures that deliver our children’s Easter eggs.<br />
<br />
Since it’s just past Easter, I think it only appropriate to talk about a fantastic recipe we ran across for rabbit stew. If you like hoppers, then I guarantee you’ll love this recipe. If you can source wild rabbit or hare, all the better, but even farm-raised bunnies will fill the bill. If you give this a try, I know you won’t be disappointed. The source of the recipe is an old cookbook on stews written by James McNair, James McNair’s Stews & Casseroles. If you’re interested in purchasing this lovely small cookbook, click <b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/James-McNairs-Stews-Casseroles-McNair/dp/0811800776/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1398518749&sr=8-15&keywords=james+mcnair+cookbooks">HERE</a></b>.<span id="goog_1338311397"></span><span id="goog_1338311398"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><br />
<br />
So here’s our go-to recipe for rabbit stew. If you like rabbit or would like to try something a bit out-of-the-ordinary, I think this will fill the bill.<br />
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Rabbit Stew</span></b><br />
<i>Serves 4-6</i><br />
<br />
<b>INGREDIENTS</b><br />
½ cup dry red wine<br />
2 Tbs olive oil<br />
1 large onion, thinly sliced<br />
1 Tbs juniper berries, crushed <br />
3 dried bay leaves, crumbled<br />
1½ tsp fresh rosemary leaves<br />
1½ tsp salt<br />
freshly ground black pepper<br />
3½-4 lb rabbit<br />
3 Tbs flour<br />
4 oz double smoked bacon, diced<br />
¼ cup shallots, chopped<br />
½ cup celery, diced<br />
½ cup carrots, diced<br />
1½ cup chicken stock<br />
1 Tbs fresh thyme<br />
2 tsp fresh parsley, finely chopped<br />
3 bay leaves, fresh or dried<br />
½ cup port<br />
3 Tbs red currant jelly<br />
<br />
<b>METHOD</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Have your butcher cut up the rabbit for stew, usually 6 pieces unless it’s a really large rabbit (lucky you!), in which case, it should be cut into 8 pieces.</li>
<li>Combine the wine, olive oil, sliced onion, juniper berries, bay leaves, rosemary, ½ tsp salt and a few grindings of pepper in a large bowl. Wash the rabbit with cold water, pat dry and place it in the bowl. Coat the pieces well with the marinade, cover the bowl and let sit at room temperature for at least 6 hours or 12 hours in the refrigerator. Turn the pieces occasionally.</li>
<li><b>Preheat the oven to 325°.</b> Drain the rabbit, reserving the marinade, but discarding the onions and herbs. Pat the pieces dry and coat them with flour. I shake the pieces in a plastic bag, and often find that I need a bit more flour.</li>
<li>In a heavy pot, cook the bacon – slowly to render out the fat – until crisp and brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the rabbit to the remaining fat and brown it evenly. Add more olive oil if necessary, but be careful! You don’t want a greasy sauce. Remove the browned rabbit to a plate or bowl.</li>
<li>Pour off all but 2 Tbs of fat. Add the shallots, celery and carrots, and cook for 5 minutes, until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Pour in the reserved marinade and stock, and bring a boil over high heat, scraping any brown bits on the pan’s bottom into the liquid. Add the thyme, parsley, bay leaves, 1 tsp salt and a few grindings of pepper. Return the rabbit and bacon to the pot.</li>
<li>Cover tightly and bake for 40 minutes. Stir in the port and currant jelly, and bake for an additional 15 minutes. Correct the seasoning.</li>
</ol>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihlmLAjsHUHAqz_ThAbuZd399h-uLFiepjL76toLwncmBZjuSSEiWtZug2Q-J66JZA-y-6sVZKfBMcz9-sJseSBrTD_1s1BZLiborahA43jwC68Lrjmf-9roPpQDNrmIs33EVVF0yn6YtI/s1600/Ready_for_the_Oven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihlmLAjsHUHAqz_ThAbuZd399h-uLFiepjL76toLwncmBZjuSSEiWtZug2Q-J66JZA-y-6sVZKfBMcz9-sJseSBrTD_1s1BZLiborahA43jwC68Lrjmf-9roPpQDNrmIs33EVVF0yn6YtI/s1600/Ready_for_the_Oven.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for the oven</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Notes:</b> When our kids were little, we used to tell them that this dish was made with chicken. <i>(I know, I know. We were terrible parents.)</i> I have my doubts whether they believed us, but they ate it anyway.<br />
<br />
We generally serve it with radiatore (“radiators”) or orecchiette (“little ears”) so that the sauce can cling to the pasta, and usually have a salad course before, rather than a hot vegetable. The easiest way to crush juniper berries is by using the bottom of a frying pan. We use a mortar and pestle, but not everybody has one of those.<br />
<br />
Our favorite wine to serve with this is from Ontario’s <a href="http://flatrockcellars.com/">Flat Rock Cellars</a>, a truly lovely winery in Beamsville up on what’s known as the Beamville Bench) Their “Gravity” Pinot Noir is just the perfect match for the flavors in this dish.. Sadly, unless you’re in Ontario or visit the Niagara Wine Region, you won’t be able to get it, so use a medium-body Pinot Noir – but get a good one.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826637953792614851.post-52117394466284045892014-04-09T00:00:00.000-04:002015-01-02T12:31:17.025-05:00How to clean an Avantco SL309 9" Manual Gravity Feed SlicerIn 2013, I reviewed the Avantco SL309 9" slicer I’d received as a Christmas gift (actually, I picked this unit out for the person who then gave it to my wife and me). This particular post has generated many views and also more comments than any other post on this blog. I was – and still am – very happy with this slicer.<br />
<br />
One late commenter, though, spoke about how hard the unit is to clean compared to the higher level slicers made by companies such as Hobart and Berkel. He made a very good point: I hadn’t mentioned cleaning in my review. The reason why is that I’d only cleaned my slicer twice. Yes, it did take a long time, but I figured that was more due to my inexperience than any design difficulties.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkm_5SFgX0hoFRN9JkwCnQk4oZBBJ3irV71u8PrBULrrnwZZlHLmabKnuQ8Nhlh4bjnb_C-unJHIfrvAO1crdhchpp44RJQb-dCRxaYi0JYXhm42alSdjBlSQlMVwLL1e2pK3Whzeed57/s1600/InProgress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkm_5SFgX0hoFRN9JkwCnQk4oZBBJ3irV71u8PrBULrrnwZZlHLmabKnuQ8Nhlh4bjnb_C-unJHIfrvAO1crdhchpp44RJQb-dCRxaYi0JYXhm42alSdjBlSQlMVwLL1e2pK3Whzeed57/s1600/InProgress.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sharpener and meat carriage removed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I’ve now cleaned my sliced at least two dozen times and I can see what Seymour (the commenter referred to above) is getting at. It is more difficult than it could have been with a bit more design thought.<br />
<br />
Slicers are one of the first places health inspectors check when they come into a commercial kitchen. Why? Because poorly cleaned slicers can be a huge source of pathogens, and it’s a place where sloppy kitchen cleaning practices can have serious consequences.<br />
<br />
If you have a home unit, the consequences of poor slicer cleaning can be just as serious. So even if you have a bottom of the line unit, you have to be thorough and use the same diligence as a commercial kitchen.<br />
<br />
Okay, to address Seymour’s main issue with cleaning the Avantco slicer, I need to state this off the top: you get what you pay for. If I had my druthers (and the cash), I would love to own a Hobart slicer with a 12-inch blade. It’s a lot easier to justify spending under $300 for a slicer you might use a couple of dozen times a year, compared to spending a few thousand dollars. Will everything be the same as one of the big name/expensive machines? No. But you do get a number of things you need to have.<br />
<br />
<b>Pros</b> <i>(and I’m reiterating some from my earlier review here)</i><b>:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>the base is cast aluminum so there are no crevices where bacteria and hide and multiply</li>
<li>the blade is very heavy</li>
<li>it comes with a sharpener so you don’t have to send the blade out for sharpening.</li>
<li>the motor has more than enough torque</li>
<li>it comes with a replacement belt for the motor (and a spare sharpening wheel)</li>
<li>robust construction means it’s built to last.</li>
</ul>
<b>Cons:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>it’s not the easiest slicer to clean in some ways</li>
<li>the blade guard could have been designed better for more easy removal</li>
<li>you have to remove the blade to get it really clean and it doesn’t come with a blade guard (although I suppose someone clever could make their own)</li>
<li>the directions for cleaning are woefully lacking – probably because this is the one area where the Avantco design falls short.</li>
</ul>
<br />
So, here are my suggestions (and helpful photos) on how to clean any of the Avantco entry-level slicers based on my experience with owning the Avantco SL309.<br />
<br />
<i>First and foremost: slicers are dangerous machines.</i> No. Make that very dangerous. You can easily slice off part of a finger with no effort whatsoever. You must always respect that. Don’t be stupid; don’t cut corners; take your time. And above all, any time you are around them, pay attention!<br />
<br />
<b>A few unbreakable ground rules:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>like any power tool, always unplug your slicer before you start cleaning</li>
<li>have on a stable workspace in good light</li>
<li>make sure the gate (the flat piece lining up with the blade) is closed (thickness setting knob at zero)</li>
<li>did I make it clear that the slicer should be unplugged?</li>
</ul>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVh24hgeIv1srqHE7zjZ_s4qLks_rv1OkQxSN2FS8OveIMUY6B1_SZfu9fhvtrO-XpTGO72H1Ev9WBfWZILCtC7cZH5mrm-4oHY4Sy7QafH-832YREHQ8ZJ27cAcXC9sOUFvwqDSxbYHGs/s1600/DirtyMachine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVh24hgeIv1srqHE7zjZ_s4qLks_rv1OkQxSN2FS8OveIMUY6B1_SZfu9fhvtrO-XpTGO72H1Ev9WBfWZILCtC7cZH5mrm-4oHY4Sy7QafH-832YREHQ8ZJ27cAcXC9sOUFvwqDSxbYHGs/s1600/DirtyMachine.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completely disassembled. Notice all the remaining grease!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
First, remove the sharpener from the top of the slicer. There’s a knob behind it that you just back off and it will slide up and out. Check to see if there are any bits of food that have collected inside it. This doesn’t happen too much to me, but I check every time anyway. At the very least, I wipe off the outside of the housing.<br />
<br />
Looking at the slicer from the front (face on with the blade to the right), you’ll see a black knob underneath the meat carriage. Take that off and slide off the carriage. This part can be run through your dishwasher, but I like to get the job done more quickely, so I wash it in the sink with a lot of soapy water. It can get pretty greasy if you’re slicing things like bacon (which we do a lot). Set it aside to dry.<br />
<br />
I usually take off the movable cutting gate, especially if it’s really greasy. The downside is that it exposes the edge of the cutting blade. Be careful if you remove this! Thoroughly wash it front and back and set it aside to dry.<br />
<br />
Now we come to the potentially scary part: removing the blade. The reason it’s necessary is that it’s pretty nigh impossible to clean the blade guard that’s fastened to the body of the unit if you don’t (the one major shortcoming of this slicer’s design). It is also easier to make sure the entire blade is clean if you remove it. This is true even with big-name, expensive slicers. But they supply a blade guard that protects you from the blade when you’re removing it.<br />
<br />
To get at the three Phillips head screws that fasten the blade to the machine, you have remove the center disk to the blade. There’s a knob on the back of the unit. Back it off a bit, then push forward on it. This pushes the guard out from the center of the blade, making it easy to grab. Finish backing off the knob and remove the guard. Clean this front and back.<br />
<br />
Clean the front of the blade carefully. I also dry it off so that when I handle it, there’s less chance of it slipping.<br />
<br />
I always use a thick towel when handling the blade. You could also get a knife-proof glove to further protect your hand. Loosen all three Phillips head screws, then unscrew each one the rest of the way. If they’re really snug, it might be a good idea to have the gate on. That way, if the screwdriver slips, you won’t cut yourself.<br />
<br />
Once the three screws are out, wrap the towel around your left hand, grab the blade carefully, and lift it off the machine. To clean the back of the blade, I put it on a counter wide enough to hold it without exposing any edges, then carefully wash it. (You’ll wash the front when you put it on the slicer again.)<br />
<br />
Next, throughly clean the blade guard housing that’s still on the machine. A lot of food particles and grease collects on this, so be through. I use an old toothbrush to get at it thoroughly. Clean up the motor housing at this time, too, as well as the little guard that keeps food from going behind the blade.<br />
<br />
You’ll want to wipe down all parts with a cloth on which you’ve poured some bleach (or you can purchase a sanitizer expressly made for this purpose). This may seem like overkill, but it really is the wisest course. After doing this, I use a damp towel (water) to wipe off any bleach residue.<br />
<br />
To reassemble the unit, put the blade back on. Make sure the three screws are tightened snugly, but not cranked down so hard you’ll have trouble getting them out next time. If the gate isn’t on the unit, you’ll need to carefully put it back on (with the thickness knob at zero). It is held on by two screws and nuts. You’ll need to make sure the blade is clearing it. That can be tricky the first few times. I always remount it, and turn the blade by hand (remember: you have it unplugged. You do, don’t you?) to make sure the blade isn’t scraping the guard.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4yAD-EkCBQxYNY0sphrLTsu_Z9R7aHbh8geWLne82ggJYz9NVgiN7nDEE_9LMBioPrRUOfk8NfSgSGw0PTubaCyi_FjH9IrcRXrw7luVYQQQ_4iz9Dp5EyGWS47YiDEmxK8RYAZpNncj/s1600/CleanMachine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4yAD-EkCBQxYNY0sphrLTsu_Z9R7aHbh8geWLne82ggJYz9NVgiN7nDEE_9LMBioPrRUOfk8NfSgSGw0PTubaCyi_FjH9IrcRXrw7luVYQQQ_4iz9Dp5EyGWS47YiDEmxK8RYAZpNncj/s1600/CleanMachine.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All clean and ready to go.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The rest of the reassembly should go easily. Here’s a good tip, gleaned from losing parts countless times when disassembling anything: put small parts (screws, nuts, knobs, etc) in a dish. Trust me. It works.<br />
<br />
I always give the blade a final turn by hand to make sure all is as it should be.<br />
<br />
I know this sounds like a lot of work, but after a few times, it can be done pretty quickly. After at least a dozen cleanings, I can do it in around 20 minutes. But never rush. Go the speed you can go that day remembering to <i>always </i>respect the blade! It needs to be razor sharp so it cuts easily and well. It’s made of heavy stainless steel for this purpose. So far, I haven’t even nicked myself, but that’s because I take it slowly and easily. Oddly, I’ve found I enjoy doing it.<br />
<br />
Okay, you can plug in the slicer now.Rick Blechtahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11800052815589987998noreply@blogger.com11